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  • From: "TradingPostPaul" <tradingpost@riseup.net>
  • To: livingontheland@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Livingontheland] COMPANION PLANTING
  • Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 08:38:03 -0600


COMPANION PLANTING
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html

Avoid suspicion: when you're walking through your neighbor's melon
patch,don't tie your shoe - Chinese Proverb

Many plants have natural substances in their roots, flowers, leaves etc.
that can alternately repel (anti-feedents) and/or attract insects depending
on your needs. In some situations they can also help enhance the growth
rate and flavor of other varieties. Experience shows us that using
companion planting through out the landscape is an important part of
integrated pest management. In essence companion planting helps bring a
balanced eco-system to your landscape, allowing nature to do its' job.

By using companion planting, many gardeners find that they can discourage
harmful pests without losing the beneficial allies. There are many
varieties of herbs, flowers, etc. that can be used for companion plants. Be
open to experimenting and find what works for you. Some possibilities would
be using certain plants as a border, backdrop or interplanting in your
flower or vegetable beds where you have specific needs. Use plants that are
native to your area so the insects you want to attract already know what to
look for! Plants with open cup shaped flowers are the most popular with
beneficial insects.

Companion planting can combine beauty and purpose to give you an enjoyable,
healthy environment. Have fun, let your imagination soar. There are many
ways you can find to incorporate these useful plants in your garden,
orchard, flower beds etc.

Following is a basic plant guide (with some tips) to help you "work in
harmony with nature."

Note: this guide is not intended to solve garden problems as the
suggestions may work differently in various situations or not at all. Don't
let that discourage you from giving the ideas a try! What works for some
may not work for others and vice versa. Experimenting is the only way we
can gain new insight for our own individual gardens.

PLANT GUIDE

ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen,
accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts
with it's long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the
ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through
rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and
disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.

AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good
with sweet corn, it's leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist
root run. Host to predatory ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.

ANISE: Licorice flavored herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on
aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by
camouflaging their odor. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it.
Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant
with coriander.

ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood

BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavor. Basil can be
helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do
not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or
grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other
deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay
leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.

*

For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house
anywhere they are getting in and they should leave.

BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In
general they are good company for carrots, brassicas, beets, and cucumbers.
Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot
beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Keep beans away from the
alliums.

BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and
flavor. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty
perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.

BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25%
magnesium. Companions are lettuce, onions and brassicas.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. Deters
tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting
plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost
pile. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing
resistance to pests and disease. After you have planned this annual once it
will self seed.

BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary.
They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.

BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop.
Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots. Tricky to
establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants
and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking
havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice
split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and
ants. Smells good and very safe.

CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavor of cabbages, cucumbers and
onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and
sulfur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from
herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed
itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate
almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any
type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavor. Keeps aphids
off lettuce. Likes shade.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavor of carrots and tomatoes . Chives may
drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees
it may help prevent scab. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers to
prevent downy mildew. See chive tea on disease page.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's
flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical
pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums
repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a picture of the painted daisy from
which pyrethrum is extraxted.

CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion. Attracts many
beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the
woolly aphid.

COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to
grow in. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs. More on
comfrey.

CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this
can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.

COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to
repel moths.

DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate
size flowers repels nematodes!

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots.
Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels
aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash
bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to
squash bugs, like squash plants, yeah that's the ticket.) Dill goes well
with onions and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it
would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep
the destructive horn worm away from them. We like to plant it for the
swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are
beautiful.

ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments) made from the leaves can be
used against aphids, carrot root fly, cuke beetles and peach tree borers.
Put branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them. Yes, it works!

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed
oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4
feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self sows. We have quite
a few flax plants return year after year here in zone 5.

FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draw Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the
foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have
dessert! It is important to mention that Four O"clocks are also poisonous
to humans. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children.
They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy
growth form.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally
occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention.
Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their
pores and when used as a soil drench is also taken up by the roots. Has
value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails,
and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic
capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away! Hey,
worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and
kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a
6-8% concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too.

Geranium: -Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes,
roses, corn, and cabbage.

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado
potato bugs. There are some very effective insect sprays that can be made
with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained.
Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield
anti-fungal properties when a tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish:
Disease)

HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family,
the many tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachinidin
and Syrid flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or otherwise
consume many other insects pests. It grows where many others fail to thrive
and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a long season, attracting
beneficial insects almost as long as you are likely to need them. For best
results use horehound directly as a companion plant. Stimulates and aids
fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and
flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one
preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to encourage
the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of
the mint family making it safer for interplanting.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea
herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we
have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away
when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If
you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.

LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!

LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract
Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too!

LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes
many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Use dried sprigs of lavender to
repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.

LEEKS: Use leeks near carrots, celery and onions which will impove their
growth. Leeks also repel carrot flies.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to
deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work:
crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward
off squash bugs!

LOVAGE: Improves flavor and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground
beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in
flavor.

MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps
soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant
freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented
variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider
mites and slugs.

*

French Marigold (T. Patula) has roots that exude a substance which
spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control
you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done
that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the
plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted
around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose.
Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.
*

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect
repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It
is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it
can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and
herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas,
aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a
mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and
predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be
careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial. We
have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is
very effective in driving them off!

MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and
there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them
away. This is a poisonous plant. See Moles: Critter Trouble

MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing
annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.

OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel
hornworms!

PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn and they will
provide extra nitrogen. Corn is a heavy feeder so this is a great
combination!

NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage,
cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash
bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the curcurbit family. Great trap
crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract,
especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low
moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers
that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow
the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. It has
no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has
attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds
are all edible and wonderful in salads!
Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad

NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are
rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their
disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent
liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the
nettles' leaves contain formic acid which "stings" you.

PARSLEY: Plant among and sprinkle on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea
to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to
attract the tiny parasitic wasps. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses
when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers.

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the
menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other
good guys love it.

PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and
other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made
from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays.

PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. Many people are now using pennyroyal as an
alternative lawn. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will
repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Smells nice too!

PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids,
tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good
companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a
tea to make a potent bug spray.

POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract
hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use
the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for
caper substitutes.

RADISH: Plant radishes with your squash plants. Radishes may protect them
from squash borers! Anything that will help prevent this is worth a try.
Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed will help fight corn
borers.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters
cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the
crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter
rosemary as houseplants or take cuttings.

RUE: Deters Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. To make it even more
effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the smell.
Repels flies and has helped repel cats for us. Some say you should not
plant it near cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with bluish-gray
leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue can cause skin
irritation! Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue spray.

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary,
cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles
and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers or rue. Sage repels cabbage
moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract
many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very
striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for
their ornamental as well as practical qualities. More on sage.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden.
Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily
from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get
quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back
in not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.

SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to
corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Soybeans are so good for
you! They are many ways to prepare them.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor.
Discourages cabbage moths. Honey bees love it.

SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the
yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there
in the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them! We
have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are so
tough that the aphids cause very little damage and we have nice seed heads
for our birds to enjoy! Talk about a symbiotic relationship!

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that
it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is
often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants.
These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen.
At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept
them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber
beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy
leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed.
Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any
abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with
its' high potassium content.

*

Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock
can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed
either as it may germinate in livestock fields.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one.
Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You
may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the
groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older
woody plants should be divided in spring.

WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese
beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An
excellent deterrent to most insects. A tea made from wormwood will repel
cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively. The
two best varieties for making insect spray are Silver King and Powis
Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed
directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the most
toxic wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do
not use it directly on food crops.
See More on wormwood. for more details.
For insect spray: See wormwood spray

YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural
fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really
speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to
name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when
planted among them.





  • [Livingontheland] COMPANION PLANTING, TradingPostPaul, 09/21/2006

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