Healthy soil and sustainable growing

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On 2/1/2003 at 12:00 AM Lehmanslife digest <lehmanslife@lists.lehmans.com> 
wrote:

>----------------------------
>The Old Farmer's 2003 Almanac-It's been consulted since 1792!  Find out
>what's in store for this year.  Planting tables, weather forecasts, lists
>and tables accompanied by homespun wit and wisdom.
>http://www.lehmans.com/special
>----------------------------
>LEHMANSLIFE Digest for Friday, January 31, 2003.
>
>1. Re: Lye Soap
>2. Re: Getting the off-grid shaft - Several Postings
>3. Re: Vaccines for puppies
>4. Re: Goats & acorns
>5. Re: Stiff starch removal - Several Postings
>6. Re: HAT BOXES
>7. RE: [lehmanslife]Garden pests
>8. Chickens and Eggs
>9. Re: Golden Lab / Tracking - Several Postings
>10. Re: Feeding Goats (baking soda)
>11. public land sales
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Lye Soap
>From: Heatherlanefarms@cs.com
>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 22:50:30 EST
>X-Message-Number: 1
>
>Sue, I think the process that you are looking for is now called "hot
>process
>soap" what most people do nowadays is cold process. but heat processing is
>on
>the rise because you don't have to cure it as long as the cold process. I
>only make the cold process, but my understanding is that you mix the lye
>and
>fat as previously mentioned, but then you cook the mixture for a specific
>amount of time, whether it is over an open fire or on the stove. Hope that
>helps.
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Getting the off-grid shaft - Several Postings
>From: "Lehman'slife Moderator" <moderator@lehmans.com>
>Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 09:52:19 -0800
>X-Message-Number: 2
>
>Posted by: Marc_McGary@aismail.wustl.edu
>Try the Backwoods Home magazine and their web site. They have a lot of
>ways
>to have solar electricity/ do it yourself style if you want.
>
>
>
>Posted by: Jean E. Olson <jeolson@iowatelecom.net>
>Most of the "pioneers" of the "Off-The-Grid" movement did NOT start out
>that way.  They were faced with horrendous up front costs of getting power
>at all.  I have read of folks who were quoted as much as 35 thousand
>dollars a mile, sometimes MORE, just to get the power poles and wires put
>in, then "Contracts" for Horrendous amounts of money per month, no matter
>how little they used, with similar costs per KWH actually used.  For them,
>it was do it themselves, or have no electricity at all.
>
>Lehmans sells practical everyday needs for non-electric living, plus at
>least ONE electrical appliance, the Staber Washing Machine.  Among other
>nice features, it is designed so you can do ALL necessary maintenance
>yourself, with ordinary tools.  Many salespersons are indeed only geared
>to big commercial accounts, some are just ignorant. Kind of like dealing
>with Used Car Salesmen!    I would first get the catalog/reference book
>Lehmans sells.  Seven dollars is a lot less than $30,000.00, and you won't
>have to count your kids and be sure you still have the things in your
>pocket that you had when you visited the Car Lot!!!
>
>Most of us can get along quite nicely with lots less electricity than we
>do.  If you are generating your own, you get really aware of how much you
>use!    Generally, if you just want to get OFF the commercial grid, you
>can just do what the Amish do.  DISCONNECT!!!!   It is really amazing how
>many "things" you can do without.
>
>We have had the experience of all power lines down, and the neighbors
>wondering how WE seemed to still have electricity.  Well, we didn't have
>any either!  We were using our Aladdin Kerosene Mantle Lamps for light,
>and cooking on our wood/coal Heartland Sweetheart stove.   Hey, if you
>have five tons of Anthracite Coal and about 6 cords of hardwood in the
>woodshed, and it is winter, no problem at all.  You need a hand pumped
>well and a cistern, but that is no problem either. It is winter, so your
>perishables will stay cold without electricity.  The old fashioned Ice Box
>still works.  Nowadays you generally buy ice, not saw it out of your pond
>each winter, but it is doable.  And, we have a nice warm kitchen. We use
>LP, but not nearly as much as we used to! Anthracite is CHEAPER than LP,
>heat for heat.  It is not as "convenient," but it is good enough for us.
>We don't mind carrying hods of coal in, carrying ashes out.
>
>Do a lot of thinking, and keep putting pencil to paper.  It is your money,
>your life.  Measure twice, cut once, etc etc.
>
>STORAGE of electricity is still very costly.  There is a patented gadget
>that you hook up to the Lead/Acid storage battery that uses a "sweeping
>current" to pretty much eliminate the "Sulfating" of the Lead / Acid
>batteries.  We don't yet KNOW how long the gadget will stave off battery
>failure.  I do know that the "solar powered" one I installed on my tractor
>has, without any input or effort from me, kept the battery at peak power.
>It spins the diesel tractor motor faster than it did when it was new.
>
>There actually is one kind of battery that NEVER WEARS OUT.  They are
>unfortunately very hard to find, even as used ones.  Most people who have
>them got them from the Electric Locomotives that carried batteries to
>power the motors in the "gaps" in the overhead power lines they normally
>used.  They bought them from the Scrappers when the locomotives "wore
>out."  It is the Nickel / Iron Edison Cell.  All youdo is replace the
>Potash Electrolyte every few years.  Well actually, you just ADD Potash as
>needed, along with water.  The problem?  Well, they have a wild voltage
>swing between discharged and fully charged. They "gas" rather vigorously!
>When charging the rubber gas seals burp constantly, burping out hydrogen
>and oxygen. You have to keep ALL sparks, etc. away from them.  And they do
>not like to be frozen.  It does not harm them, they just don't work if
>they are frozen.  Add not being available, and they are not generally a
>choice.  Nickel/Metal Hydride batteries are being used in the modern
>electric automobiles. We still don't know how long they will last.
>Apparently they have to be replaced about every ten years.  The problem
>is, they have not yet been used long enough to be sure of how long they
>will last.
>
>The initial expense of batteries is quite high.  ANY kind of batteries.
>And, any batteries that you can get all need replacement every five to
>seven years.  Unless the "sweeper current" devices work as well as it
>looks like they will work.  I have seen badly sulfated batteries brought
>back to health with them, so I am optomistic.  My son is an Analytical
>Chemist, and he says the Physics of the device is sound - in other words,
>he says they should work just fine.  If the "battery problem" was solved,
>that would sure help.
>
>But if electricity generation from wind is "impractical," WHY are there
>almost a THOUSAND brand NEW giant wind turbines installed in North West
>Iowa right now?  That electricity is being sent to Chicago!  And farmers
>in the area are all being contacted for "Wind Generator Lease" sites.
>They rent the site from the Farmer, he farms right up to within a few feet
>of the tower.  We tried to count the ones we could see from I-35 last
>summer when taking a trip to Minneapolis.  We counted over 600, and we
>could not see all of them!  All of them turning round and round,
>generating electricity from the wind.
>
>So first get the book from Lehmans. Then do a lot of searching on the
>Internet.  There are several "dealers" in equipment, and many "linked"
>sites. Think carefully, watch your pocketbook.
>
>It can be done.  It can be very practical.
>
>Best wishes!
>
>Jean
>
>
>
>Posted by:  "Smith 06340, Karen" <Karen.Smith06340@LibertyMutual.com>
>Andrew
>Where are you located?   I highly recommend Sunweavers (found on the web
>at http://www.sunweavers.com/), but they are located in the North East
>(New Hampshire) ... so I'm not sure that they are an appropriate resource
>for you (check out their website, though - it (or an email note to them)
>may answer some of your questions)
>
>Karen Smith
>email:  karen.smith06340@libertymutual.com
>
>
>
>Posted by: SailorSuzy@aol.com
>Regarding your off-the-grid plan: You didn't say where you live. This will
>(as you probably know) be a major factor in your Solar & Wind applications
>and whether or not they will be cost effective.  Here in NE Indiana,
>winters are long & gray (I once counted over 30 days straight with NO sun,
>during the winter !!) Not good for solar power. And wind is not consistent
>here, either.  So, if you are anywhere near here - your best bet might be
>to buy land with a year-round creek on the property and do a
>hydro-electric system.
>
>We also have a cabin in the Ozarks, and we might do that type of system to
>be off the grid when we move there, full time. It is much more sunny
>there, too. So a combination of hydro & solar might be good... if you are
>in that general area.
>
>FYI: Joel Skousen has an excellent book titled: The Secure Home and it
>gives you detailed information about a variety of topics, including
>alternative power sources. He is excellent in everything he researches &
>writes. He also has a book titled Strategic Relocation, which identifies
>every County in the US regarding which places are the safest to live,
>considering many factors. I highly recommend both books.They may help you
>make your decision, as to what alternate power is best in your area. You
>can order his books direct at: 801-224-4746.
>
>When making decisions, regarding spending large amounts of money, it is
>always best to "do your homework" as they say.
>
>Thanks to Lehman's for helping us network with each other !!
>
>Suzy B
>from Indiana
>
>
>
>Posted by: "Arthur Hammeke" <hammekea@hotmail.com>
>I have a lot of links to Alternative websites.
>http://scatcat.fhsu.edu/~athammeke/Alternative.htm
>
>Look under solar resellers, and have fun.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Vaccines for puppies
>From: "Tom Moser" <tmoser@usa.net>
>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 21:52:15 -0600
>X-Message-Number: 3
>
>What diseases no longer exist?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Smith 06340, Karen [mailto:Karen.Smith06340@LibertyMutual.com]
>There is growing belief, particularly within the holistic veterinary
>community, that some vaccines can be more harmful than beneficial
>(especially the combined vaccines (like DHP-PC), when vaccines are given
>all at once, and / or while vulnerable puppies are still developing).
>Some vaccines are still given, for diseases that no longer exist.  If
>you're interested in reading up on it, I would recommend either:   The
>Nature of Animal Healing (by Dr. Martin Goldstein DVM) and/or Dr.
>Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats (by Dr.
>Richard H. Pitcairn and Susan Hubble Pitcairn).
>
>I believe that all states require, by law, that the rabies vaccine be
>given.  No other vaccines are required by law.   If you do plan to give
>all vaccinations - I would highly recommend spreading them out... So
>that you're not introducing multiple diseases to the immune system all
>at once
>
>Karen Smith
>email:  karen.smith06340@libertymutual.com
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Goats & acorns
>From: "M.J. Mc Evoy" <chewy@whitepine.com>
>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 23:17:44 -0600 (CST)
>X-Message-Number: 4
>
>You do need to watch the amount of oak leaves and acorns that the goats
>eat.
>I don't recall the name of the book, but I will look for it.
>JD Belanger did mention oak posioning in his book, Raising Dairy Goats.
>
>Micheal
>--
>Micheal Mc Evoy                                   chewy@whitepine.com
>St Brigid's Gate Farm
>Bertram, Texas
>
>Lehman's Insert - We sell the book "Raising Dairy Goats".  It is #340624
>and costs $18.95.  You can order by phone, 1-888-438-5346 or through our
>web site.
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Posted by: Linne Dodds <flolinne@gtcom.net>
>> I just think they're cute & really wish I had one to help clear some of
>> the underbrush. Does anyone know if they eat acorns? Have a real
>> Skating rink,way too many to rake & squirres can't eat them all either.
>> Linne Dodds
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Stiff starch removal - Several Postings
>From: "Lehman'slife Moderator" <moderator@lehmans.com>
>Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 10:00:49 -0800
>X-Message-Number: 5
>
>Posted by: "shirley" <bsmac@cts.com>
>I had the same thing happen to new scrubs I bought for my work at a
>hospital.  The scary thing is this "wrinkle proofing" contains
>formaldehyde, and a lot of us are allergic to it and don't know it.  I
>always wash anything (sheets, towels, clothes, underwear...anything that's
>going to touch my body), before I wear it. I called the manufacturer, and
>was told to boil my scrubs in a large pot of water on the stove for twenty
>minutes, then re-wash.  I actually simmered because boiling was messy.
>Had to do this two times, but the sizing was finally gone.  Good luck!
>Shirley
>
>
>
>Posted by: djcentner@juno.com
>Re: stiff jeans.  I would suggest that if the label is still in the
>jeans, a websearch might turn up the manufacturer of the jeans who could
>provide an answer.  But if the finish has survived 20 washings, I think
>it might be a resin finish. Anything that is strong enough to remove it
>may also degrade the cotton fiber.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: HAT BOXES
>From: Pascott937@cs.com
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 15:31:12 EST
>X-Message-Number: 6
>
>You know how to make them?  Would you share that info with us, please?
>
>Blessings,
>Nicolle
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:   Keifer257@aol.com
>I know how to make them. You could always look at antique stores, that's
>where i got mine.
>Blessings and love,
>Brenda
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: RE: [lehmanslife]Garden pests
>From: "Jill Simpson" <jillsimpson12@att.net>
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 09:02:40 -0500
>X-Message-Number: 7
>
>My father said that when he was young the farmers would turn/plow their
>gardens and fields before a heavy freeze.  This would bring the
>ground-dwelling bug larvae to the surface so the frost would kill them.
>I believe the Amish still do this today.
>
>Our most damaging pests are not bugs, but deer.  The bugs on our farm
>starve to death because the deer eat everything.  We plant tomatoes and
>they are gone by morning.  The deer are so overpopulated due to
>Pennsylvania's game laws.  But that's another gripe for another day!
>
>Jill
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Chickens and Eggs
>From: SHARON GANNON <sgannon56@yahoo.com>
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:41:47 -0800 (PST)
>X-Message-Number: 8
>
>My chickens mostly prefer to use the same nest, even
>though we have four nests.
>
>I'm wondering where you get a chicken that is willing
>to sit on an egg?  We started with Rhode Island Reds,
>which won't, and now we have mostly those yellow
>chickens that lay blue and green eggs.  It would be
>fun some year though to have a chicken sit on an egg.
>
>
>
>=====
>Sharon
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Golden Lab / Tracking - Several Postings
>From: "Lehman'slife Moderator" <moderator@lehmans.com>
>Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 10:12:04 -0800
>X-Message-Number: 9
>
>Posted by: "The ESCAPE Co." <escape@escape-co.com>
>You asked about teaching a dog to track (we used Nutro brand dog food to
>teach). This was a subject I knew nothing about but thought it would be
>fun
>to try. The instructions that I decided to go with
>(http://www.workingschnauzer.com/scent.htm) said to use some type of food
>that the dog liked but that didn't have too strong a smell, so we tried
>the
>Nutro (his everyday food) and it worked. By the way, this dog is
>STRANGE...
>he will generally not eat his dog food unless I feed it to him from the
>palm of my hand (yes he's SPOILED, and I have NO clue why he will track
>his heart out for this dog food that he turns his nose up at when it's in
>a bowl, but not when it's in my hand or scattered on the ground!), but as
>the biggest chowhound in the world he will eat nearly any "human" food
>imaginable...including fresh tomatoes (thank goodness he's not yet figured
>out that he could pluck them from the garden!), strawberries, grapes, dill
>pickles, cold shrimp, and frozen (not raw or canned) peaches. Most dogs
>would die for acold hot dog, too, but Ben only likes them after they've
>been heated (as my husband says, "Ben is just his own person"). He loves
>to track though (we just do it for fun), and he sounds almost like a pig
>snorting and rooting when he gets really intent on a trail... unless he
>sees or smells a rabbit, in which case all bets are off and Mr. Rabbit is
>in deep doo-doo if Ben's off-leash. If you want a VERY hard-headed (Ben
>could convince anyone that he's stone-deaf, if he so chooses),
>intelligent, playful and energetic (two speeds only, with NO in-between...
>evenly divided between lightning and utterly lazy), dominant, and strange
>dog that's a born comedian, a giant schnauzer is for you!
>Kim Brown, partner
>The ESCAPE Co.
>www.escape-co.com
>
>
>
>Posted by: "Barbara Blegen" <bblegen@cuttingedge.net>
>The first thing you should do is have your dog tested for allergies!  My
>dog was doing the same thing at first, then he got to scratching and
>biting all over.  When he was tested for allergies we found he was
>allergic to yeast (any kind) and all the dog foods I could find had
>Brewer's yeast.  He was also allergic to rice, milk products, - in short,
>the only things he wasn't allergic to was eggs, corn, peas, carrots,
>chicken, oats, barley.  So if you are still feeding him what he is
>allergic to he will continue to scratch and bite.  My dog was also
>allergict to some grasses, most common weeds and a number of trees.  I
>took him to 4 different vets (2 holistic) and no one could help him.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>> Posted by: Jean E. Olson <jeolson@iowatelecom.net>
>> Sorry, I just HAVE to ask!  How do you use Nutro Dog Food to teach a
>> dog to track????
>>
>> Jean
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: Re: Feeding Goats (baking soda)
>From: "Lehman'slife Moderator" <moderator@lehmans.com>
>Date: Fri, 31 Jan 2003 10:14:02 -0800
>X-Message-Number: 10
>
>Posted by: STOFARM@aol.com
>bakin gsoda helps the goats digestion process  and keeps  the gasses from
>building in thier system  from bloating them.thier is also a special goat
>pre mix that should be given to goats as well this contains all of the
>vitamons and trace minerals that goats need that has been specially mixed
>for them so that you dont have to worry about copper and other things hat
>arent good for goats.but you wont find these at a pet store you need to go
>to a farm feed store to find them.
>
>
>
>Posted by: "Tom Moser" <tmoser@usa.net>
>So, why do goats need baking soda and cows don't?  I have a friend who has
>raised goats for many years and has never given them baking soda and has
>never lost a goat to "bloat"
>Tom
>
>
>
>Posted by: Wellness Ways <wellnessways@yahoo.com>
>I want to emphasize the importance of following directions on the label
>when taking Baking Soda.  My brother took too much Baking Soda over a
>period of time and perforated his colon.  By the time he got to the
>hospital he had to spend Several Months in Intensive Care and during that
>time they didn't give him much chance of getting better - but he did.
>
>Wellness Ways
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Subject: public land sales
>From: "garywyrrick" <garywyrrick@cox.net>
>Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:30:39 -0600
>X-Message-Number: 11
>
>would like to have a link to public land sales. In back of "Field and
>Stream" is an add for $20 for list,it's a PO box in Washington. I don't
>trust these type adds.But I'm sure the govt. does sell 20 acre sites on
>public land for just a few dollars an acre, I just can't find the
>list.Could be a hoax like "bigfoot", but i've heard of this for years
>and spent a few hours on the web searching. If any one can link me up
>I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks,                              gary
>
>
>
>
>---
>
>END OF DIGEST
>
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