Homestead mailing list

[Rob <becida AT comcast.net>]

Return-Path: <bounce-homestead-227727 AT listserv.unc.edu>
From: "tvoivozhd" <tvoivozd AT infi.net>
To: "Homestead mailing list" <homestead AT listserv.unc.edu>
Subject: Re: Asphalt Shingles
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 09:09:26 -0700
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200
List-Unsubscribe: <mailto:leave-homestead-227727P AT listserv.unc.edu>
Reply-To: "Homestead mailing list" <homestead AT listserv.unc.edu>


----- Original Message -----
From: G.J.H. <georgehendricks AT webtv.net>
To: Homestead mailing list <homestead AT listserv.unc.edu>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 5:14 AM
Subject: Asphalt Shingles


>    Does anyone know if there is a sealant for asphalt shingles?  I just
> bought a neighboring 5 acre parcel and the only building on it,( little
> old 3 room house) I want to turn into a work shop. But the roof needs
> something done to it, and now my budget doesn't allow a new roof this
> year. I want to find something to put onto it to stop some leaks for a
> couple of years.
>    Any ideas will be appreciated!
>           Thanks,
>
>     G J H

tvoivozhd---there are two poor-boy solutions, depending on how numerous are
the leaks.

If there are only a few, any home improvement store, small or large will
carry five gallon buckets of fibered asphalt.  The type containing
reflective aluminum flakes, commonly used for mobile homes will stay in
place better under a hot sun.  It is easiest to apply with a roller. Some of
these temporary repairs may become pretty permanent, since some I made over
ten years ago still show no signs of leaking again.  If the asphalt shingles
are very brittle, lower edges curled up and split, a roofing contractor
supply will have rolls of synthetic fabric used for imbedment in flat hot
asphalt roofs.  Roll some fibered asphalt over the leaking area, cut a patch
of the fabric and imbed it, and roll more fibered asphalt over it.  Remember
that leaks do not necessarily occur over the point at which they emerge
inside the roof---often water travels three to ten feet vertically or
horizontally between the inlet and an outlet.

If there are numerous leaks, do what a roof contractor does to protect a
newly stripped roof when rain threatens---cover it with 6-mil black
polyethylene available in ten feet and twenty feet widths.  The only caveat
is that it must be prevented from flapping too much and that fasteners must
not tear out or pull out.  This is accomplished by using 2" wood, metal,
plastic or even cut-tarpaper strips laid over the 6-mil and fastened down
with ringnails or screws.  Screws are easier to remove for later permanent
repair. Galvanized sheetrock screws are cheapest and last well.  Thick
strips (wood) would be best installed in a vertical position so they don't
serve as rain-dams and induce leakage.  Thin strips will work about as well
when installed horizontally, but require many more fasteners---and I think
the best would be the ringed roofing nails that come with plastic washer
about 1-1/4" wide.  I have even used cardboard strips painted with
polyurethane varnish, which lasted three to four years, even when fastened
with a roofers heavy duty swing-stapler instead of with ringnails with
plastic washers.  If strips are fastened down every four feet the plastic
film should last at least two years, three or four if fastened down every
two or three feet.