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[Rob <becida AT comcast.net>]

Date:   Sun, 07 Mar 1999 18:10:52 -0500
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From: Tvoivozhd <tvoivozd AT roanoke.infi.net>
To: homestead AT listserv.oit.unc.edu
Subject: Re: Posts/Concrete/Arches
References: <807de0c2.36e2baaa AT aol.com>
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FranksFarm AT aol.com wrote:

> Hey,
>
> Appreciate Donna's and TVO's response on posts in concrete and 
treated posts.
>
> I had already ruled out setting posts in concrete for the very reasons TVO
> enumerated, and I had already ruled out pressure treated wood, and 
other such
> treatments many of which are causing environmental problems, and could even
> lead to ground contamination.
>
> I know in some areas underground leaking oil tanks can cost a 
small fortune to
> clean up according to some laws. The contaminated soil is treated 
like nuclear
> waste he he, and requires very special handling and disposition.  UGH!
>
> That's just one reason I'm personally not enamored of such treatment. I
> wouldn't use pressure treated, stained preservatives on wood for my raised
> garden beds either.
>
> Yet I know of no viable, universal alternative.
>
> Wood under ground ( unless naturally rot resistant like black locust
> etc....just a matter of length of time though :)must somehow be protected or
> it will naturally rot, decay, be food for insects etc...that's the natural
> order of things!
>
>  Hard to fight nature. imho.(BG)
> Frank

>>>tvoivozhd---forgot to add you can have wood posts and their appearance by
mounting them on concrete post of the same diameter.  Make the latter 
by drilling
holes with an auger.  Pour a reinforced concrete punchpad and let it cure.  
Set
and brace vertical a "sonotube".  (made of cardboard).  Run 
horizontal lines with
a transit or water level on all the sonotubes at twelve to sixteen 
inches off the
ground (can vary), and saw off the tubes at the mark.  Pour concrete level 
with
the top of the sonotube.  Insert in the concrete whatever you are 
using for wood
pole tiedowns.  Commonly this is an "L"-shaped bolt with the threads 
projecting
above the concrete about one inch.  This will allow a nut to fasten down a 
1/8"
washer, and a 1/4" piece of preformed metal with two ears bent up six 
inches or so
on each side of the proposed wood post.  A center hole is
drilled, through which the concrete-imbedded bolt passes, and a hole 
in each ear
through which passes a bolt going through a hole drilled in the wood 
post.  If you
are in termite country, a termite shield is mounted on the concrete post 
first.
The concrete won't decay and neither will the wood.  For myself I 
would treat any
outside exposure of the post with boric acid.  Boric acid is water soluble, 
but
under the house and above the concrete post this is not a 
problem.  This would be
a precaution against insects against which a termite shield would be 
ineffective.
You wouldn't have to use boric acid on that portion of the wood 
exposed to people.