[nafex] Winter grafting Early
England's Orchard and Nursery
nuttrees at prtcnet.org
Fri Jan 3 15:52:39 EST 2014
You and Jerry are correct with the understanding the scion wood be moist
when cut at least 1 day before hand above freezing to allow some sap flow (
just so the scion wood is not desiccated )
Storage of scion wood Can be for me now and in the past stored at 32 to 36
with a 2 degree variation higher or lower and this can be even achieved in
For a 1 gallon Ziploc Bag half full say 20 sticks I want one Half of
Standard size Paper towel just torn in half for a moisture carrier / not
dripping or to point of run off but good and damp to be the reserve Moisture
carrier I have stored scion wood for up to 3 year and still grafted with it
this is not My first choice but given the experiment that I performed in
2004 when I was Activated to Active Duty Army 116 ACR Special Assignment.
I stored the same wood in 2 different ways and the scionwood was F-100 Male
fruiting Virginiana that I received from Jerry that Spring but Had not used
I prepared some for the freezer packed and submerged in water and the other
held in a temperature of 32 to 36 degrees F. with this done I left in
November 2004 and returned December 2005 and in the spring I grafted with
both pieces of scion wood there was 4 stick 2 treated equally and out of 4
grafts 1 of each one was successful and are large trees to day.
Often as Jerry pointed out it is not merely the storage temperature that
will cause the scion wood to go bad but that it is the Fluctuations of the
temperature above the normal storage temp. and the lack of Moisture and to
much can be a bad thing also in a warm Environment.
With the use of Hydrogen Peroxide and a more sterile practices we have
elevated most of the problem of the scion wood storage for long periods of
time remember Hydrogen Peroxide is H2O3 and when it breaks down after it has
did its Job you merely have Water and Oxygen and that extra molecule of
Oxygen is very important.
England's Orchard and Nursery
2338 HIGHWAY 2004
Mc Kee, KY. 40447-8342
Specializing in alternative crops.
Email: nuttrees at prtcnet.org
Ph. # 606 965 2228
See us On FACEBOOK @ https://www.facebook.com/Kynuttrees
1. Re: Winter grafting Early ( <mailto:Jwlehman at aol.com>
Jwlehman at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2014 21:19:43 -0500 (EST)
From: <mailto:Jwlehman at aol.com> Jwlehman at aol.com
Subject: Re: [nafex] Winter grafting Early
To: <mailto:nafex at lists.ibiblio.org> nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
Message-ID: < <mailto:35e2b.7f4988ee.3ff7783f at aol.com>
35e2b.7f4988ee.3ff7783f at aol.com>
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In a message dated 12/27/2013 1:22:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
<mailto:hollaus at comcast.net> hollaus at comcast.net writes:
> Plant disease can still be contained within. Given the longer period
> the time the plant is dormant (seems to me) is giving disease the leg
> up if the storing of the graft or scions are bacterial friendly.
> (example: plant dormant and scion ends mashed from cut, gravy food for
> My understanding from teachers in the field of grafting is optimal
> conditions storing many scions are "28-30F". Or in another case that
> 34F is more dangerous (reliability goes way down) for other things
> like sweet cherry.
> Many including I have had problems in sweet cherry grafting.
> Might an accurate temperature for storing (uncertain) plant woody
> be one we should be concerned about? Or why and your opinion of if
> slightly contaminated material is of consequence?
If seems to me you are basing your comments on Prunus. And with Prunus you
are absolutely correct. Diospyros isn't nearly as subject to diseases nor do
the scions need be stored nearly as cold. Sweet cherry breaks bud much
earlier than persimmon, at about 40 degrees the sweet cherry bud shell
breaks, flowering begins and bud expansion begins shortly after. Persimmon
is one of the last to break bud in the spring and can be stored at higher
temps. Malus isn't nearly as critical as Prunus.
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