[nafex ibiblio list] grape sprays for black rot

Lon J. Rombough lonrom at hevanet.com
Mon Dec 26 14:01:57 EST 2011

Copper sprays are important controls, though there are many newer treatments coming out.  Here's a useful post.

From: "pdeninno11" <pdeninno11 at yahoo.com>
Date: November 21, 2006 8:55:33 AM PST
To: grapesrus at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [grapesrus] Re: 2nd year vines
Reply-To: grapesrus at yahoogroups.com

Here is some good information on black rot for anyone growing organicaly.

We have applied the yucca product with Champion (copper hydroxide)
plus lime and with lime sulfur, and have not seen any damage to
Concord or Niagara vines attributable to the combination.  I have not
tried it mixed with sulfur.  However, you may want to reconsider using
yucca.  While our preliminary greenhouse screening trials with yucca
were encouraging, our field trial results with yucca this year have
been anything but encouraging with respect to control of black rot
fruit infection.  We applied yucca alone (at 16 and 32 oz per acre)
and as a tank mix with Champion/lime and lime sulfur, at 10 day
intervals.  The yucca alone gave zero control of black rot on fruit,
and provided no extra benefit when applied as a tank mix with
Champion/lime or lime sulfur.  Even though we got excellent results
with yucca in greenhouse trials on grape leaves, it completely failed
to protect fruit in our field trials.  I'm not saying it won't work,
but applying yucca at 10 day intervals in a wet 2006 did nothing to
stop black rot on Concord or Niagara.  We did see some evidence in our
inoculations that it will work better at shorter intervals (less than
7 days), but you may want to stick with what you know works on fruit
in the field.

The best organic material for control of black rot in 2006 was copper
(Champion plus lime). On Concord vines where we hung black rot mummies
in the trellis (for extra high disease pressure) copper provided 49 %
(2 lb rate) and 63 % (4 lb rate) control of black rot on fruit when
applied at 10 day intervals. On Niagara (2 lb rate), it provided only
31 % control of black rot on fruit (again, under extra high disease
pressure).  Not too exciting, but far better than anything else we
tested in the field.  On Niagara vines without any mummies in the
trellis (moderate disease pressure), the 2 lb copper rate provided 97
% control.  

As to what copper and sulfur to use: We only have experience with
Champion (copper hydroxide).

Bottom line: 
1) so far, copper and lime is still the best thing for organic control
of black rot. The higher the rate and/or the shorter the interval, the
better the control. It will also do a decent job on powdery mildew and
is very effective on downy mildew.
2) make sure you remove black rot infected mummies from the trellis
before spring.  They are a far less potent source of inoculum on the
ground than in the trellis.  Also, there is some evidence that the
sooner you remove mummies to the ground, the fewer spores those
mummies will release during the following fruit susceptibility period
next year. 
3) So far, we have not seen much efficacy from yucca on fruit in the
field and, unfortunately, cannot recommend it for black rot control.

--- In grapesrus at yahoogroups.com, "JWyman" <victoriacreek at ...> wrote:

Well this is supposed to be advanced growing so my two cents follow:  
while disease and rot and those types of things can be a nuisance, 
and if left unchecked, can compromise yield, ....they are not the 
  Although you cannot reclaim cane or buds that were damaged from a 
previous years infection, the infection can easily be killed and kept 
off new growth the following year by employing a reasonable and 
effective spray schedule.  
 Also I wouldnt bother removing 'mummies' or infected pruning 
cuttings unless you are willing to remove every dead leaf on the 
vineyard floor as well. 

--- In grapesrus at yahoogroups.com, "Gale, George" <GaleG@> wrote:

Have you made any wine yet from Noiret? If so, what's it like?


-----Original Message-----
From: grapesrus at yahoogroups.com on behalf of pdeninno11
Sent: Fri 11/17/2006 20:27
To: grapesrus at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [grapesrus] Re: 2nd year vines

I heard from a few people now that noiret is very subceptable to 
rot. I am growing organicaly so I was looking for black rot 
in my varieties. Going to try the yucca extract and see how it does.

--- In grapesrus at yahoogroups.com, Steve Robbins <worldcruiser@> 

I have 20 vines of NY73--Noiret. What ever the NY
breeding station say, they are very subceptable to
black rot, especially the fruit. I finally eliminated
the problem with Pristine, which I used for the 1st
time this year. No black rot in the entire vineyard.

Another thing about NY73, every year 2 or 3 of the
vines dies back to the ground and the roots push up a
new cane. So not fruit on about 10% of the vines every
year. This also happens in another vineyard in
southern NH that I know of.

The fruit ripens very late here. I picked this years
the 2nd week of October.

--- pdeninno11 <pdeninno11@> wrote:

I have Cayuga White and Noiret (ny73) going into
their second year.
Should I spray 2nd year vines since they are not
going to be bearing
fruit? I did notice some black rot on a few vines, I
think it came
from some natives vines that are near by. They will
be ripped out this
winter. Any advice appreciated.

Grapes, writing, consulting, book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner  GWA "Best Talent in Writing"  2003. 
Grape pruning video: http://www.bunchgrapes.com/dvd.html View a short, low resolution clip here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q58zFY0B1M
A video about The Grape Grower : http://cookingupastory.com/index.php/2008/04/18/the-grape-grower/

On Dec 25, 2011, at 7:10 PM, Jerry & Dana Frederick wrote:

What are the best sprays for  black rot on grapes?  I live in southern Indiana where we tend to have hot humid summers. One vine is in the shade, which I think is a problem.  The others are in the sun but I want to spray them also as I have lost 100% of my grapes to black rot.  I have used Bordeaux spray, but does not do the job.  Jerry in southern Indiana

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