[NAFEX] Killing grapevines
hangermayer at isp.com
Thu Oct 8 20:21:47 EDT 2009
My 41% glyphosate label states to pour the concentrate on the stump of
trees. It's so potent I doubt it wouldn't work any time of the year. I've
used it in the fall on "hard to kill" trees like maple with success. The
label says there is little risk of the herbicide translocating to roots of
other trees. In my experience it is more effective on stumps than 2-4D. If
you really want something potent, Tordon will take down anything, but it has
carryover and may kill connected roots. Roundup does not break down
quickly, but is still considered safe. The reason is that it binds tightly
to organic matter which renders it inert in plant uptake. It stays put in
the soil until it breaks down.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Demmon" >
To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Killing grapevines
> Glyphosate, i.e. Roundup supposedly breaks down quickly in soil, and
> is in my experience, not harmful to other plants around if applied to
> a cut stump at rates up to 52% active ingredient. Cut the stump, and
> apply herbicide within 5 minutes. You need to use at least 20%
> glyphosate. Only time this won't work is when sap is rising in spring.
> Triclopyr is also effective, however I am less familiar with its side
> effects on the soil and other plants.
> -matt z5 se mi
> On 10/5/09, William C. Garthright <wrote:
> > I need to kill a couple of grapevines that are close (8 - 10 ft.) to
> > other trees and vines. If I cut off the vine and poison the cut end, do
> > I have to worry about damage to the roots of any of my nearby plantings?
> > I've got some brush-killer (Ferti-lome Brush Killer/Stump Killer, which
> > is apparently /triclopyr/). I know it works very well, but I haven't
> > used it since I started planting fruit trees. I think it sticks around
> > for awhile. I've also got RoundUp, but I don't know if that will work
> > when applied to a cut trunk.
> > Basically, I'm just worried about causing unintentional harm to other
> > trees and vines through root contact. Do I need to worry about that at
> > FYI, I'm just getting rid of a couple of grape varieties that ripen at
> > the same time as my Concord grapes. I'm just swamped with grapes then
> > (since I have two Concord vines), and I don't like these much, anyway.
> > One is a Caco grape, which I've had for several years (planted on a
> > whim, before I was interested in fruit, when I saw a "grapevine" on sale
> > in a local nursery). It grows great, but the grapes are always too sour.
> > My Allwood grape is just a year old, but unlike the others I planted,
> > this doesn't ripen early. And - this year, at least - the grapes just
> > tasted... bland.
> > I might plant another early grape, though. A year ago, I also planted
> > Jupiter, Swenson Red, and Kay Gray, and they were wonderful this year.
> > They ripened one after the other, which was really nice. And I got
> > grapes when I was especially hungry for them. While I'm posting here
> > anyway, does anyone have a suggestion for a very early table-grape (even
> > earlier than Jupiter, if that's possible - otherwise, just something
> > different)? I like a variety of tastes. And seeded or seedless is fine.
> > My only remaining location is shaded in the morning, if that matters
> > (I'm trying to reserve SOME sunny spots for my garden).
> > Yeah, I really don't need to plant any more fruit,... but it's
> > addicting, isn't it? :-)
> > Bill
> > Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
> > --
> > Human beings are born equal but cultures are not. They are human-made
> > and for the most part man-made. There is nothing sacred about cultures
> > and nothing blasphemous about reforming them. - Irshad Manji
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> -matt demmon
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