[NAFEX] Questions about using Carbaryl (Sevin) to drastically thin apples.
rharrison922 at yahoo.com
Fri Jun 12 21:52:04 EDT 2009
In horticulture class years ago, we were taught that Sevin thins only what it comes into contact with. So, theoretically, I guess you could thin one side of a tree only. But in reality, can you spray it that accurately?
I would think that if one wanted no fruit left on a tree that it would be possible to spray strong enough to virtually achieve that goal. A very young tree might benefit from the increased growth that way.
I'm sure some of the experts on this forum can further enlighten you on the subject.
--- On Fri, 6/12/09, Steve <sdw12986 at aol.com> wrote:
From: Steve <sdw12986 at aol.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] Questions about using Carbaryl (Sevin) to drastically thin apples.
To: "NAFEx" <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
Date: Friday, June 12, 2009, 8:13 PM
It's pretty easy to find info on the web about thinning apples with
Sevin. I think there is even information about that on my container of
Sevin. I have a couple of questions beyond the normal use and I wonder
if anyone here has answers for me.
1. Can Sevin be used to thin just one part of a tree? In other words,
does it work mostly where you spray, or does the spray stress the entire
tree, causing fruit drop even on areas with little or no spray contact?
2. Is it possible to purposely cause a nearly 100% drop of fruit? I have
a tree that I would love to have drop all the developing fruit. This is
a tree I asked about, here, over a year ago. It has damage to the bark
near the ground so that it is partly girdled.* Due to that damage, it
puts on little vegetative growth but flowers profusely. It is loaded
with small apples. Most are only the size of a pea right now. Some are 3
times that size. The reason for this size difference is that I have
grafted different varieties to this tree. The early bloomers are bigger.
Since I have been working on this multi graft tree for years, I hate to
just cut it down and start over. Obviously, I'm thinking that removing
all fruit would relieve it from the stress of fruit bearing and maybe
help it recover.
I figure time is against me right now. The apples are getting bigger and
it has been cool. Even now, the forecast is for barely 70 degrees and I
believe apples thin better if it is warm.
Steve in the Adirondacks (zone 4a on the maps, colder most years)
*(Most replies to that post figured it was borer damage. After watching
the tree for over a year, I saw no evidence that borers caused the
trouble. Certainly, no borers entered the actual wood. The post was used
in a recent issue of Pomona. I was going to say which issue and page. I
would have sworn it was either the Winter of Spring 2009 issue but
after looking carefully, I don't see it anywhere.)
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