[NAFEX] relative vigor of grafting wood

Jwlehman at aol.com Jwlehman at aol.com
Tue Apr 22 12:00:50 EDT 2008

In a message dated 4/22/2008 6:03:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
alandhaigh at gmail.com writes:

> I've long been puzzled by the inconsistency of some of my grafting projects 
> where 2/3rds of the sites I do grafting I get almost 90% success and another 
> 3rd I'll get only 50%.  I wonder if it is related to using wood with poorly 
> developed buds.  Anyone out there with more info on this?

Let me pass along my observations on persimmon buds on this subject. I've cut 
hundreds of scion sticks and grafted hundreds. But haven't done scientific 
records keeping. This is nearly 20 years of observation. 

Generally, on a single year's growth the buds further out or closer to the 
tip are more developed than the first buds that developed when growth began. 
These early buds are less developed and act as secondary or back-up buds. On 
persimmon the outer more developed, or fatter buds are the ones that grow the 
following year. Now if the growing tip is broken off or a late freeze, as in last 
year, the secondary (less developed) buds then break out and grow. For sure 
the smaller buds take longer to break dormancy. I've grafted many two year old 
buds, when the prior years wood is too small*, with success. It does take maybe 
two weeks longer for those dormant buds to become active and break out and 

So yes, with persimmon, fat buds make better grafting material then small 

Something else I've done with success. I've taken scion wood in July after 
growth is well underway.  Cut off the growing tip and graft the secondary or 
reserve buds, works quite well. I've done it with plum, apple, mulberry and 

* With persimmon, generally trees that bear heavy crops have less energy to 
grow wood therefore difficult to find scion wood with good diameter And some 
varieties just aren't good wood producers. 


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