[NAFEX] persimmon grafting
martha_davis at highstream.net
martha_davis at highstream.net
Mon Nov 21 23:15:09 EST 2005
I've done some top working of larger trees where I didn't want to cut the whole
thing down. I did mostly whip and tongue. The success rate wasn't great, but
it is possible and so far some grafts have lasted several years and fruited.
It was late to make a good multivariety tree. The things that seemed to make a
difference on success were the shoot vigor that I was grafting to, the
orientation of the shoot and the amount of sun the shoot had. More vigor, more
vertical and more sun being better. Jim Claypool has a multi variety trees near
his office, one of which has at least 5 varieties on it if not more. It was
grafted early enough to have them each be major scafold limb which certainly
works the best.
Quoting "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom at hevanet.com>:
> I've had low survival of American persimmon grafts on small diameter
> limbs. The only way they work well is to graft to a main scaffold
> limb. On any limb smaller than two inches in diameter, the trees seem
> to want to "prune" the graft and they die back to a larger limb and
> slough off after a few years. Two varieties per tree seems to be the
> most that work, long-term.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers Association
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> On Nov 21, 2005, at 8:57 AM, Lucky Pittman wrote:
> At 10:46 PM 11/19/2005, Mark wrote:
> > I have had zero success with persimmons. I wonder if it has to do
> > with my
> > rootstock. I have a persimmon seedling that is a full tree. I graft
> > onto a
> > few branches and let the rest of the tree just grow normally. I don't
> > try
> > to check the new growth on the rest of the tree. I can get away with
> > this
> > on apples. Do I need to do things differently with persimmon grafts?
> I'll defer to Jerry for the definitive answer, but like yourself, I've
> dismally poor results - if not total failure, in trying to foster grafts
> onto branches of mature persimmons.
> Even with young seedlings, I've had trouble keeping topworked grafts
> growing well, if the rootstock has branches present below the graft.
> manage it with one seedling in the orchard this year, but I had to
> consistently - about twice a week - pinch out terminal buds or break
> new growth that kept sprouting out on the branches below the graft - and
> I'll probably prune those limbs off whenever growth initiates this
> All in all, I prefer a rootstock with no branching, so that it's putting
> all its energy into pushing growth on the grafted scion - and I'll say
> again - you've got to follow up; at least every couple of days, you've
> to rub off any new shoots pushing out on the scion - and you may have to
> continue to do this for weeks.
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