[NAFEX] Why's of persimmon grafting

Lon J. Rombough lonrom at hevanet.com
Mon Nov 21 21:03:09 EST 2005


I don't know about all situations, but when I do bark grafts on 
persimmon, with stock that is at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, I 
have never had trouble with blow-outs.  First, because the bark is 
pretty thick and holds the scions tight.  Second, I use a two bud 
scion.  Third, I wrap the stock very tightly with plastic tape (I 
prefer something like flagging tape, with no adhesive on it).   And I 
seal it with Doc Farwell's.  In a windier location, there may be 
blowouts, but  not with mine.  I figure that with the large stock, the 
bark doesn't tear easily; and there is more energy to heal the graft in 
really well, and quickly.  Additonally, a short scion is less prone to 
pulling loose.  It works well enough I have taken pictures of my 
persimmon grafts to show how fast they heal in.  Most only have a small 
circle of uncovered wood showing on the end of the stock by the close 
of the season, and by the middle of the second year, the graft is 
continuous with the stock.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at 
http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association 
"Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On Nov 21, 2005, at 5:55 PM, Richard Moyer wrote:

Lucky and others,
I took your advice, rubbed all the buds off religiously, and my 
kaki whip grafts took off after sitting there for several weeks. 
Then had to stake them as Jerry (and you) suggested, due to several 
feet of growth and side branches.
Why questions:
Why, with the greater damage of blowouts, do you prefer bark grafts 
over whip grafting?  On seedling rootstock, the proper diameter for the 
scion is there, if not, I do cleft grafts, which also are stronger than 
bark grafts.  In my lack of experience here, please help me understand 
the attraction of bark grafts for persimmon.
 
Why, compared to apples, pears, pawpaws, mayhaw, cherry, etc, is 
persimmon so particular about removing ALL competing buds on the 
rootstock?  What are the hormonal/physiological reasons that are at 
play here, that are absent in so many other woody plants?
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