[NAFEX] persimmon grafting
Lon J. Rombough
lonrom at hevanet.com
Mon Nov 21 12:22:56 EST 2005
I've had low survival of American persimmon grafts on small diameter
limbs. The only way they work well is to graft to a main scaffold
limb. On any limb smaller than two inches in diameter, the trees seem
to want to "prune" the graft and they die back to a larger limb and
slough off after a few years. Two varieties per tree seems to be the
most that work, long-term.
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers Association
"Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On Nov 21, 2005, at 8:57 AM, Lucky Pittman wrote:
At 10:46 PM 11/19/2005, Mark wrote:
> I have had zero success with persimmons. I wonder if it has to do
> with my
> rootstock. I have a persimmon seedling that is a full tree. I graft
> onto a
> few branches and let the rest of the tree just grow normally. I don't
> to check the new growth on the rest of the tree. I can get away with
> on apples. Do I need to do things differently with persimmon grafts?
I'll defer to Jerry for the definitive answer, but like yourself, I've
dismally poor results - if not total failure, in trying to foster grafts
onto branches of mature persimmons.
Even with young seedlings, I've had trouble keeping topworked grafts
growing well, if the rootstock has branches present below the graft.
manage it with one seedling in the orchard this year, but I had to
consistently - about twice a week - pinch out terminal buds or break
new growth that kept sprouting out on the branches below the graft - and
I'll probably prune those limbs off whenever growth initiates this
All in all, I prefer a rootstock with no branching, so that it's putting
all its energy into pushing growth on the grafted scion - and I'll say
again - you've got to follow up; at least every couple of days, you've
to rub off any new shoots pushing out on the scion - and you may have to
continue to do this for weeks.
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