[NAFEX] Any opinions on my grafting problem?

Lon J. Rombough lonrom at hevanet.com
Wed May 4 23:56:49 EDT 2005


Cut the stock off.  It should have leafed out and be growing actively.  
Lift the edge of the bark just enough to get the scion in under the 
bark and push it down with the long cut of the wedge against the wood.  
The bark will split slightly, but that won't hurt.  You will get a much 
tighter fit this way.  Wrap the stump with masking tape, surveyor's 
tape, electrical tape, or whatever else.  Coat all cut surfaces 
liberally with Doc Farwell's grafting compound.  Wait for the grafts to 
grow.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at 
http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden Writers Association 
"Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
On May 4, 2005, at 8:40 PM, John Smith wrote:

Lon, Lucky, et al.,

To make sure I'm visualizing this right, when you do
these bark grafts after cutting the wedge at the base
of the scionwood, I assume you make a couple verticle
cuts through the bark in the rootstock and pull it
away in the underlying wood separating the layers like
you would to do budding, to create a flap, then shove
the scionwood in there and wrap tightly?

Thanks for the input.

--- "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom at hevanet.com> wrote:

> I've always had the best results with peaches and
> plums when I potted
> the rootstock and held it in the greenhouse.  When
> it had leafed out
> and was growing, I cut it off and bark grafted the
> scions (cut them to
> a wedge and the bottom and pushed that under the
> bark).  That method
> gave essentially 100% success where whip and tongue
> was nearly a flop.
> I recently used the bark graft to topwork a large
> apple tree and all
> six grafts have begun to grow.
> -Lon Rombough
> Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape
> Grower, at
> http://www.bunchgrapes.com  Winner of the Garden
> Writers Association
> "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003.
> On May 3, 2005, at 8:53 PM, John Smith wrote:
>
> This year I moved several hundred miles and brought
> along several pear, apple, and peach seedlings and
> dwarfing rootstocks I had growing in my garden and
> stored in a cooler bare-root over the past winter.
> This spring, I pulled them out for a couple days,
> placing them in a box of moist vermiculite until
> they
> began to break dormancy.  I grafted about 10 of each
> fruit type, mostly using a cleft graft,
> whip-and-tongue on a few.  A few scions I placed in
> a
> glass of water while preparing the rootstock, mostly
> I
> just worked quick so the scion wouldn't dry out.
> Used
> a cloth grafting tape, wrapped very tightly, since
> scionwood was thinner than the rootstock in every
> case, just matched up the cambium on one side.  I
> coated the graft site and the scion (except buds)
> with
> wax from a toilet bowl gasket.  I then carefully
> buried the whole thing in the mosit vermiculite and
> held at about 70 degrees for 2 weeks, then planted
> in
> my new garden.  After a few weeks, it looks like
> 100%
> of the pears have taken, some have a couple inches
> growth already.  Looks like about 90% on the apples,
> and 0% on the peaches. I know peaches are supposed
> to
> be more difficult, anyone have any ideas on what i
> could do differently next time?  Looks like I may
> need
> to stick to summer budding on those, but it's harder
> to get good fresh bud wood at that time...
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