[NAFEX] Bark Damage
O'Barr, R. D.
topgun at otelco.net
Mon Dec 5 23:52:21 EST 2005
I have also wrapped trunks and branches that had bark knocked off with
electrician's tape and when removed some months later the area was as good
as new. The sooner after the injury the better.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Heron Breen" <breen at fedcoseeds.com>
To: <breen at fedcoseeds.com>; "North American Fruit Explorers"
<nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Bark Damage
> The "maine" issue is what to do about the deer who dealt the blows. Fences
> expensive compared to freezer meat. Young buck are repeat offenders,
> staking claim to a tiny area with little reproductive results. Older bucks
> more spots, and seem to consider one good thrashing good to go for a
> If you have any branch damage, stub cut near the area broken and leave
> pruning to to the return best cut. This will reduce winter breakage while
> expecting the tree to heal in a season it does not naturally heal well in.
> cut to the branch collar. Branches torn out of or stripped down the side
> sockets are bad news. Don't paint anything wounded, borers are not an
> spring or early summer, at least here in Maine. If you wanted to paint
> maybe paint the unwounded bark on the southwest side with white diluted
> to sugars/water being sucked out of wounded area during
> may see growth next year, or you may not. Depends on lots of factors.
> Severe bark injury can actually kill/damage roots as a consequence of
> being interupted. Injured roots cause sunscald by disrupting vascular
> winter sun/cold. Injuries on the southwest side are the more prone to
> added cracks/splits/peeling.
> Trees come through many serious injuries with flying colors,
> Heron Breen
> zone 4,
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