[NAFEX] successful bud grafts / temperature
Katherine.Russell at oberlin.edu
Thu Aug 19 11:32:14 EDT 2004
I take it from the ongoing discussion of grafting, that my concern about it being "too late" for budding my cherry tree is overly alarmist?
I'm going to go ahead and try something this weekend. I have some rootstock lined up.
Any suggestions for techniques likely to work on a thin barked sour cherry, at a time of year when the bark isn't slipping (it's not), will be appreciated.
I'd read that the recommended way of propagating sour cherry would have been by budding, sometime in June. This is what I tried earlier this summer, not in June but in July; since I'd read that the scionwood should be dormant, I picked buds which were not actively growing and did not have a leaf coming out next to them. Again, please, if anyone can recommend a better way of doing it or correct misinformation, that would be appreciated. Best.
krussell at oberlin.edu
----- Original Message -----
From: del stubbs <pinewoodel at hotmail.com>
Date: Thursday, August 19, 2004 9:17 am
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] successful bud grafts / temperature
> My stone fruit grafting has been either w/t or chip bud, alwasys
> quite mixed
> results, I keep wondering if the main problem isnt temperature. I
> seeing a list of temperatures needed for callusing - and stone
> fruits were
> at the highest needed temp, aples at the lowest, anyone have such
> a list?
> Light frost possible this weekend and high in 50's. , I'm grafting
> fruits anyway though.
> I have used a combo chip / whip + tongue I am liking more and
> more. I
> prepare a piece of scionwood like I would for w/t, including
> tongue, but
> instead of making a matching end cut on the rootstock, I skive it
> onto the
> side of a branch or main stem. My thoery is that it is a thicker
> piece of
> scion and has more staying power that way......such as now when it
> has to
> wait till ? to see 80F.
> Del Stubbs http://www.pinewoodforge.com ag zone2/3
> >From: Stefan Brandle <sbrandle at css.tayloru.edu>
> >Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers
> <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>>To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
> >Subject: Re: [NAFEX] successful bud grafts
> >Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2004 11:26:57 -0500
> >On Aug 17, 2004, at 10:55 PM, Bob Hartman wrote:
> >. . .
> >>>>>* I let the buds dry out in transit. Don't
> think that's
> >>>>>problem. They went straight from cutting to my
> and were
> >>>>>taken out
> >>>>>only when ready to be inserted.
> >>>Why put them in your mouth? I never cut the bud until
> I am
> >>>to insert it. From the time I cut it off the bud
> stick until it
> >>>is in place is about 3 to 5 seconds.
> >>I had the same question. You mouth is full of bacteria,
> viruses,>>mammalian growth factors, enzymes that break down
> plant material,
> >>and who knows what else. I would try not to touch the cut
> surface>>with either my fingers or my mouth if possible.
> But I've never
> >>done bud grafting, so maybe that's not an issue.
> >Good question. It seemed easier to prepare a bunch of buds at
> once.>I read or heard somewhere that commercial budders put a
> bunch of
> >buds in their mouths and spit them out as necessary. So saliva,
> >human viruses, etc. didn't count. There was a non-totally
> scientific>report in Pomona a while back about how clean the
> grafts had to be.
> >As I recall, this guy was answering a question about that from his
> >niece (?) by doing an experiment. Although not exactly conclusive,
> >he reported that the cleanliness wasn't such a big deal.
> >However, it makes sense that you might as well have everything
> >involved be as clean as possible. So I'll try again -- I know it's
> >late -- and see whether I can keep everything properly clean. Wish
> >me luck. :-)
> >-- sb In zone 5b wondering where I left my grafting knives. Last
> >time, my knife showed up the day after I had given up hunting,
> >purchased and received a new grafting knife! Are you sure these
> >things are truly inanimate?
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