[NAFEX] pond irrigating

road's end farm organic101 at linkny.com
Thu Jun 5 10:50:27 EDT 2003


On Thursday, June 5, 2003, at 07:45 AM, del stubbs wrote:

> Rivka, (and anyone else) I noticed in your last post you mentioned you 
> irrigate from a pond. We have a new 1.5 acre pond 100 feet away and 10' 
> below our orchard. Haven't found a tank yet. Have a gas powered trash 
> (centrifugal) pump - am hoping it can lift 15'. So am curious how you 
> irrigate.....from a tank? drip? how do you control algae, duckweed and 
> other matter from contaminating lines and nozzles etc?  thanks,Del
>
The pond here is uphill from the fields under cultivation, and gravity 
gives enough pressure for drip irrigation without a pump; the limited 
water supply here makes drip a better choice than overhead in any case.

The inlet at the pond is a PVC pipe with holes drilled in it, to prevent 
large objects from getting into and clogging the underground PVC pipe 
that runs for the first several hundred feet. At that point I attach a 
disc filter, which seems to be enough for the amount of material that's 
in the water from this pond. If you have a lot of stuff in your water, a 
sand filter setup might be better, but they're more expensive. From the 
filter the system goes to 2" layflat hose, from that to 1 1/2" 
bluestripe headers along individual field edges; drip tape for each row 
hooks into that with a shutoff valve for each line, as I often have more 
than one crop with different water needs in the field. Individual line 
shutoffs are also handy when leaks occur, you can just shut off the one 
line you're working on.

Mostly I'm irrigating vegetables and strawberries. For orchards, with 
the much wider plant spacings, you'd probably use  lines with emitters 
of some sort at each tree, instead of drip tape.

--Rivka
Finger Lakes NY; zone 5 mostly




More information about the nafex mailing list