[NAFEX] bleeding grafts

Gordon Nofs gc_nofs at hotmail.com
Fri Apr 4 11:55:23 EST 2003


I do all my grafting after leafing out and late into summer with dorment 
scions as long as I have them in the fridge. I have never had a bleeding 
problem, Grapes included. I get 90% and over.
  I teach grafting and no one has had the problem.
Gordon C. Nofs
Flint, MI.

****************************



----Original Message Follows----
From: Mauch1 at aol.com
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [NAFEX] bleeding grafts
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 11:46:20 -0500

Although Bob Purvis taught me to be able to do dormant
grafting of Prunus, before that (and still my method for
field grafting of Prunus, with the exception of Peach)
I grafted using whip & tongue after my stock started to grow,
and I've never had problems with running sap.  I've grafted
Plum (Japanese & European) on to St. Julian and Marianna
2624, Apricot onto St. Julian and Marianna 2624, Sweet cherry
onto GM61 (actually I've also done cherry grafting by
grafting very early (before Feb 15th in my area) -
technique thanks to F. Bunny).  I've not "late" grafted
Grape, but I would expect sap to be an issue with grape and
kiwi (and from the existing posts - Walnuts as well).

--
Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6
40 5' N    75 51'W
~650 ft elevation


<
I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl Weschke 'Growing Nuts in
the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the leaves start to come out (on
planted trees), but this causes considerable sap bleeding. His method of
getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then wait several days before
commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this might not have merit with
stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher temperatures to callus? I
remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to get as much heat as
possible, but not so late that they fill the graft with running sap. 6"snow
today, Del
 >


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