[NAFEX] bleeding grafts

lee sharp sharplr at yahoo.com
Fri Apr 4 07:41:12 EST 2003

I have been grafting for 45 years and my favorite
procedure is to "bark graft". It is easy and very
successful to do. The "old timer" that taught me to
graft warned me not to graft a sap bleeding stump.
With experience I developed a method of cutting off
the plants to be grafted one day and waiting until the
next day after the dew dries to make sure the plants
are not bleeding and if dry complete the graft. If the
plants are bleeding I wait until they dry regardless
of how long it takes and then complete the grafting. I
have on occasion made a vertical cut down the stump
which seems to make the bleeding time less but that
depends on the trunk diameter.
 I have used this procedure on Pecans, Pears,
Persimmons and Mulberries.

Lee Sharp
Ms. Gulf Coast,Zone 8b/9
--- del stubbs <pinewoodel at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I was loaned a wonderful little 1950's book by Carl
> Weschke 'Growing Nuts in 
> the North'. He mentions grafting nuts after the
> leaves start to come out (on 
> planted trees), but this causes considerable sap
> bleeding. His method of 
> getting around this is to cut the rootstock - then
> wait several days before 
> commencing with grafting. I am wondering if this
> might not have merit with 
> stone fruit like apricots that seem to need higher
> temperatures to callus? I 
> remember Bob Purvis saying to graft apricots late to
> get as much heat as 
> possible, but not so late that they fill the graft
> with running sap. 6"snow 
> today, Del
> Del Stubbs  www.pinewoodforge.com  ag zone2/3
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