[NAFEX] Pear rootstocks

Mauch1 at aol.com Mauch1 at aol.com
Mon Nov 25 14:39:48 EST 2002

I didn't comment on the pear rootstock initially as the original query 
was for zone 5 and colder and as I'm in zone 6 my experience may not
apply.  I've been messing around with pears for about 16 years or more.

Some purchased, all the later ones grafted by me.  The initial 3 pears I 
ever bought were on dwarfing rootstock (unknown) 2 from Millers and I believe
the 3rd from Stark.  The Stark was an Oriental, as was one of the Millers,
the other being a 3-n-1.  All of them ended up being "runted" out at about
4 ft. high.  

I kept planting purchased pears over the next years all on dwarf rootstock.
All of them are now well over 12 ft, and possibly over 15.

Since then I have grafted (as was available from whom I was ordering) onto 
OHxF 282, OHxF 333, OHxF513(I believe the 512 is a typo).  Mostly grafting
Oriental Pears at my new home.  They are averaging *over* 3 ft of top growth
a year (I have mulched, but not fertilized these pears).  The two Euro pears
have not shown as vigorous a growth, but are planted up a slight slope, with 
what appears to be slightly poorer soil, and were established during the 
the last two years of drought (one is also a red Bartlett, which are 
naturally somewhat dwarfed).  Because I'm grafting different scions onto
various stocks, I can't give a solid judgement on whether one is best.  
Cummins nursery web site (http://www.cumminsnursery.com/) did say at one point 
that they found for Oriental pears, that OHxF333 caused excessive runting and 
that OHxF513 was superior for them.  In general they, however, (last I read 
their site) are now grafting all their Asian pears onto Pyrus betulifolia.  

So I'm overall happy with the OHxF series, I'm a little concerned the trees 
are going to get bigger than I wished for.

I also have to state that I have been extremely blessed. In all the years I've
had these pears, I've never had any fireblight. (Hope saying this doesn't 
curse me).   

Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6

P.S. On pears, I think I may have stated this before, but regarding Euro pears,
(and I probably like a good pear better than many apples), what is the 
incentive for home raising them?  Since some of the best varieties are available
for a fairly low price, and since they have to be picked before they are 
ripe anyway, what's the point? Not trying to start a fire- and/or a food- fight
but am looking for other's opinions.  Thanks, crm 

>On the OHxF series.

>OHxF 282
>OHxF 333
>OHxF 512

>Are all in the semi-dwarfing (12 - 15 foot tree) class in zone 6 and above .  
>They perform relatively poorly in the warmer regions producing what amounts 
>to bonsai trees in the warmer districts.  All are fireblight resistant and 
>are compatible with most if not all pear varieties.    

>The have a minor sensitivity to drought when compared to bartlett or seedling 
>stock.    They all hold a decided advantage over Barltlett in that they are 
>all fireblilght resistant.   The OHxF series is also superior in regard to 
>"pear decline".

>Frankly for those in the northern climates I cannot imagine why you would 
>not use one of the OHxF clones over bartlett, winter nelis or seedling 

>the rabbit

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