[NAFEX] Pear rootstocks
Mauch1 at aol.com
Mauch1 at aol.com
Mon Nov 25 14:39:48 EST 2002
I didn't comment on the pear rootstock initially as the original query
was for zone 5 and colder and as I'm in zone 6 my experience may not
apply. I've been messing around with pears for about 16 years or more.
Some purchased, all the later ones grafted by me. The initial 3 pears I
ever bought were on dwarfing rootstock (unknown) 2 from Millers and I believe
the 3rd from Stark. The Stark was an Oriental, as was one of the Millers,
the other being a 3-n-1. All of them ended up being "runted" out at about
4 ft. high.
I kept planting purchased pears over the next years all on dwarf rootstock.
All of them are now well over 12 ft, and possibly over 15.
Since then I have grafted (as was available from whom I was ordering) onto
OHxF 282, OHxF 333, OHxF513(I believe the 512 is a typo). Mostly grafting
Oriental Pears at my new home. They are averaging *over* 3 ft of top growth
a year (I have mulched, but not fertilized these pears). The two Euro pears
have not shown as vigorous a growth, but are planted up a slight slope, with
what appears to be slightly poorer soil, and were established during the
the last two years of drought (one is also a red Bartlett, which are
naturally somewhat dwarfed). Because I'm grafting different scions onto
various stocks, I can't give a solid judgement on whether one is best.
Cummins nursery web site (http://www.cumminsnursery.com/) did say at one point
that they found for Oriental pears, that OHxF333 caused excessive runting and
that OHxF513 was superior for them. In general they, however, (last I read
their site) are now grafting all their Asian pears onto Pyrus betulifolia.
So I'm overall happy with the OHxF series, I'm a little concerned the trees
are going to get bigger than I wished for.
I also have to state that I have been extremely blessed. In all the years I've
had these pears, I've never had any fireblight. (Hope saying this doesn't
SE PA, zone 6
P.S. On pears, I think I may have stated this before, but regarding Euro pears,
(and I probably like a good pear better than many apples), what is the
incentive for home raising them? Since some of the best varieties are available
for a fairly low price, and since they have to be picked before they are
ripe anyway, what's the point? Not trying to start a fire- and/or a food- fight
but am looking for other's opinions. Thanks, crm
>On the OHxF series.
>Are all in the semi-dwarfing (12 - 15 foot tree) class in zone 6 and above .
>They perform relatively poorly in the warmer regions producing what amounts
>to bonsai trees in the warmer districts. All are fireblight resistant and
>are compatible with most if not all pear varieties.
>The have a minor sensitivity to drought when compared to bartlett or seedling
>stock. They all hold a decided advantage over Barltlett in that they are
>all fireblilght resistant. The OHxF series is also superior in regard to
>Frankly for those in the northern climates I cannot imagine why you would
>not use one of the OHxF clones over bartlett, winter nelis or seedling
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