[Market-farming] For those who have built tunnels using Johnny'shoops bender

Todd Lister toddlister1 at gmail.com
Sat Feb 18 19:35:21 EST 2012


This past fall I took a 24x 48 gothic with short straight sides and bought
4' extensions for the ground posts. This pushed the house way up. I love
it.  For added stability I put a 45 degree brace pipe at one end of each
side on the straight wall. Hammered the ends flat and bolted it to the top
of straight wall at gable and at ground level of third post in. soled as a
rock. I did just what Bill has suggested. Band board at the top of straight
wall, wiggle wire the plastic there, pipe and hand crank at bottom of apron
plastic. Used the same idea on a small house.
I would not go 6' centers though.  I do have a 24 x 48 round hoop made of
1.9" pipe that I set at 5' 6" on center but I put a large cedar tree post
at 1/3 and 2/3 down the middle coped under the center purlin. I am in
Georgia though and we rarely get measurable snow. We have had at just one
6" snow fall each of the last 3 years and the house is solid. I don't think
the plastic would do well at 6' OC.

Todd Lister
Veribest Farm
Vesta Ga

On Sat, Feb 18, 2012 at 5:50 PM, Etienne Goyer <etienne at lejardinduvillage.ca
> wrote:

> Hello Mr. Shoemaker,
>
> The hipboard is a pretty good idea.  I also like the idea of using
> wiggle wire.  Hopefully, I would be able to get the plastic taut enough
> that sagging from rain accumulation would not be a problem.
>
> I will have to reconsider hoops spacing.  I plan on removing the plastic
> over the winter (we measure snowfall in feet around here).  But still,
> the tunnels is fully exposed to the wind.  It would certainly be safer
> to have closer hoops.
>
> Again, thanks a lot for the insights (Beth and MAsteveIN too!)
>
> Etienne
>
>
> On 12-02-18 02:28 PM, Shoemaker, William H wrote:
> > If you are leaving the ground posts higher, you could add a hipboard at
> the top of the ground posts. Install wiggle wire and secure the plastic
> there, letting the plastic hang to the ground. Get 1.5" pvc pipe and use
> duct tape to secure the pipe to the edge of the plastic. Add a T fitting at
> one end of the pipe and put 2 12" stubs in the side holes of the T fitting
> and you can roll-up the sides for venting. You'll have the height you need
> for trellising and the ventilation you'll need. You won't need the ropes
> for the plastic either. I guess I wouldn't be comfortable with 6' spacing
> of the hoops unless you're pretty protected from wind and heavy snowload.
> >
> > William H. Shoemaker
> > University of Illinois, Crop Sciences
> > St Charles Horticulture Research Center
> > 535 Randall Road, St Charles, IL  60174
> > 630-584-7254, wshoemak at illinois.edu
> >
> > ________________________________________
> > From: market-farming-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org [
> market-farming-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org] on behalf of Etienne Goyer [
> etienne at lejardinduvillage.ca]
> > Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 12:19 PM
> > To: market-farming at lists.ibiblio.org
> > Subject: Re: [Market-farming] For those who have built tunnels using
> Johnny'shoops bender
> >
> > The plastic is not attached to the ground, so you just raise the side.
> > According to Johnny's, the friction of the rope is sufficient to keep
> > the plastic up, but in my experience on other farms, it is not.  So I
> > plan to use clamps to hold the plastic to the bow at the proper height.
> >
> > That is one of the potential problem of raising the height of these
> > tunnels.  Side ventilation may not be sufficient, and too much warmth
> > might accumulate at the top.  I will have to think about this.
> >
> >
> > MAsteveIN, you have a really weird email quoting style!  :)
> >
> >
> > On 12-02-18 01:06 PM, MAsteveINE wrote:
> >> How are these guys ventilated?
> >> MAsteveINE
> >>
> >>
>  0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
> >>      Hello everyone,
> >>
> >>      I bought Johnny's "Quick Hoops" high tunnel bender. Their
> instruction
> >>      manual is really good, and I like their design. I am planning on
> >>      building two 100' tunnels this spring. I have two questions for
> those
> >>      who have built similar tunnels.
> >>
> >>      First, Johnny's tunnel are 7' high in the middle, which I find is a
> >>      little low for trellised crop. I would prefer something closer to
> 10'
> >>      high. I am thinking that, instead of cutting the 6' post in half, I
> >>      would use the full 6' length of the post, leaving 4' sticking out
> of
> >>      the
> >>      ground (instead of 1'). I This would make a kind of straight "side
> >>      wall" 4' high, on which the bows would rest. This would obviously
> cost
> >>      twice as much in post, but I think it is a fair trade off. Have
> someone
> >>      done something similar, and if yes, is the structure sound?
> >>
> >>      Secondly, how wide have you set the bows? The example in the
> manual as
> >>      a bow every 4'. I am planning on using three purlins (one in the
> >>      center, and two to attach the trellises to), so I am thinking the
> >>      structure will be quite solid indeed. I am thinking of having one
> every
> >>      6' instead. Would that be enough? My only worry is water
> accumulating
> >>      on the plastic above the purlins.
> >>
> >>      Beside, what was your experience? Any tips to share?
> >>
> >>      Thanks!
> >>
> >>      --
> >>      Etienne Goyer - Le Jardin du Village
> >>
> >>
> >>
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> >
> > --
> > Etienne Goyer  -  Le Jardin du Village
> > http://lejardinduvillage.wordpress.com
> >
> > "Changer le monde, une betterave à la fois"
> >
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> --
> Etienne Goyer  -  Le Jardin du Village
> http://lejardinduvillage.wordpress.com
>
> "Changer le monde, une betterave à la fois"
>
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