[Market-farming] Blackberry and Raspberry Questions

Glen Eco Farm glenecofarm at planetcomm.net
Sat Aug 9 12:53:35 EDT 2008

We have not always been successful at keeping the weeds out.  In early spring, when the ground is wet, I spend a good deal of time digging along the edge of the row and pulling weeds out.  Mulching heavy with horse barn bedding/wood chips helps to control weeds in the blackberries.  Mowing along the raspberry rows and mulching with hay helps feed the plants and control weeds.

Christine in VA
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Michelle Johnson 
  To: 'Market Farming' 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 12:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Blackberry and Raspberry Questions

  Did they mention how they control weed growth within the raspberry canes?  We moved our raspberries to our orchard to run in rows between our fruit trees, and no matter how much I weed and mulch, the grass roots continue to be a problem.  I don't want to use landscape fabric that might inhibit new cane growth.  Any suggestions?



  -----Original Message-----
  From: market-farming-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:market-farming-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of BillOhio
  Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:50 AM
  To: Market Farming
  Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Blackberry and Raspberry Questions

  We recently attended the brambles field night at the Piketon, Ohio OSU South Centers research station, which was highly interesting. They no longer recommend trelling brambles -- formerly they used high-tensile wire and clips with, I think, a 6-foot plant spacing. Instead, they are recommending heading back the canes at about 2 feet tall to break apical dominance, thereby inducing development of laterals, which are in turn clipped at 18-22 inches. Plant spacing is 2 feet in the row for thorny and 1 foot for thornless, due to the more aggressive spreading of the thorny varieties. 

  That's how I remember it, anyway :). The folks at Piketon are really helpful. Their annual horticultural field night is coming up in mid-August. 5 bucks a pop, and they've got a tour, dinner and research summaries. Pretty good deal...

  For more information: 

  Julie B. Strawser
  Information Associate
  OSU South Centers
  1864 Shyville Road
  Piketon, OH 45661
  740-289-2071 or 800-297-2072 ext 223
  strawser.35 at osu.edu

  This message is sent to you because you are subscribed to
   the mailing list <SouthCenters-Hort at ag.ohio-state.edu>.
  Send administrative queries to  <SouthCenters-Hort-request at ag.ohio-state.edu>

  WRT Japanese beetles, I used a method this year totally unsuited to a large planting but which worked for me fairly well. I cut the top 4" off a 2-liter pop bottle to make a funnel, then held that over regular pop bottles and shook the beetles into the bottle off my grapes and blackberries. It seemed if I got them when they were actively flying and scouting that the damage was somewhat reduced, and I had robins nesting in the grapes and didn't want to spray. Filled 6 bottles with beetles, which is a heck of a lot of bugs. The beetles can't get out of the narrow top of the bottles. ATM the beetles are attracted to some milkweed plant flowers in the blackberry patch, which are acting as trap plants. I can shake them into a bottle. Same thing works somewhat for blister beetles on potatoes. Grandkids enjoy hunting beetles. 

  Kind regards,

  Bill Huhman

  central Ohio

  On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 10:36 AM, Jay Atkerson <jay at mcreccwb.com> wrote:

  I have two blackberry and raspberry questions:

  What is the best way to trellis raspberries and semi-erect blackberries?

  What are the best techniques for controlling June beetles and Japanese
  beetles in blackberries and raspberries?  (Prefer organic or safe methods)



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