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  • From: Scott Smith <scott@cs.jhu.edu>
  • To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [nafex] Sulphur spray
  • Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 09:13:15 -0400

Caren, lime-sulphur is simply lime plus sulphur which makes a liquid.
Sulphur is just elemental sulphur, either it is made flowable by putting in
some kind of liquid carrier, or it is a micronized powder of a form that will
dissolve in water. Standard garden sulphur will not dissolve. They are
somewhat similar in what they treat; lime-sulphur enters the tissues a bit
and so is better for dormant sprays and after a rain to eradicate. Sulphur
is on the surface only and is better at keeping bad guys from getting in to
begin with. I usually spray only l/s dormant and sulphur in growing season
but l/s also can work well in growing season (make sure to use the lower dose
on the label for actively growing trees).

If your trees are dormant you can spray lime-sulphur together with oil in one
spray. If there are any leaves don't mix them, it will burn the leaves.

Scott

On Apr 2, 2012, at 10:43 AM, Caren Kirk wrote:

> Thanks Scott. Excuse my ignorance but what's the difference between
> sulphur and lime sulphur sprays? I have both but what I did yesterday
> was lime sulphur. I do not have any sticking agents, will have to see if
> I can get hold of one.
>
> Can I spray dormant oil now or will I have to wait? Can I mix the
> sulphur with that?
>
> By the way, despite the crazy weather we still have not had bud break up
> here.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Caren.
>
> On 4/2/2012 8:39 AM, Scott Smith wrote:
>> Caren, I would respray that one, maybe waiting a week or so since it did
>> have some effect and you can thus cover a longer period. It does help to
>> have a disease spray on before a rain since rain will produce new spores
>> which will wake up in a very unwelcome environment. The standard saying
>> is to use sulphur before a rain and lime-sulphur after; the l/s penetrates
>> the leaf surface a bit and can get any freshly growing fungi. When you
>> spray sulphur (not lime sulphur) use a sticker, you can keep much of it on
>> through a light rain. I use nufilm-17 with every sulphur spray I do.
>>
>> I don't know why it states not to spray sulphur on apricots - maybe some
>> varieties are susceptible. I was not spraying sulphur on my cots until a
>> few years ago when I heard others were using it, and since then I have
>> laid on the sulphur and not noticed any problems. I have over a dozen
>> varieties so if there are any susceptible varieties it is not that common.
>> One guess I had was some apricots are highly prone to brown rot shoot
>> blight and perhaps someone mistakenly thought that was caused by the
>> sulphur. I did notice a bit of leaf browning on hot days so that could
>> be another potential reason; it was so minor that it was almost not
>> noticeable. Sulphur is very useful for preventing peach scab on apricots,
>> it is a big problem on Puget Gold and a few other varieties. So it is
>> probably OK to use.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On Apr 2, 2012, at 7:55 AM, Caren Kirk wrote:
>>
>>> Trying to be efficient I sprayed my fruit trees yesterday morning with
>>> lime sulphur at around 11am. By 2pm it ahd started drizzling and then it
>>> really rained and then it snowed.
>>>
>>> How long does sulphur need to stay on the tree to be effective? Will I
>>> need to respray everything?
>>>
>>> Of course today is going to beautiful.
>>>
>>> Also, I bought some new sulphur and it said not to use it on apricots.
>>> Is this true? It was not mentioned on my last bottle of sulphur. How
>>> then should I protect my apricot from Brown rot present on other prunus
>>> in the orchard? Or is apricot considerably less susceptible?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Caren Kirk
>>> St. Jerome, QC
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