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  • From: Jwlehman@aol.com
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] slow grafts, plus
  • Date: Fri, 2 Jun 2006 07:08:46 EDT

In a message dated 6/2/2006 12:10:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, yarrylo@hotmail.com writes:


Last year I spring bud grafted onto some pretty tenuous bareroot one year
persimmon seedlings and opted not to prune back the stock at all. The grafts
took without sprouting of the bud, and the stocks all survived that hot dry
summer. This spring before leaf out, I pruned the stocks back to about 6
inches above the graft and have since had vigorous growth from the grafts -
1 to 2 feet. I don't think I lost much by not pushing things, and believe I
may have lost the stocks had I been more aggressive.      Alan Stei
n


Hi Alan,

Based on my 15 years working with persimmon I believe you did a one up and the idea was good.

Persimmon typically take a year or two to reestablish their root systems. An enzyme that enhances root growth is generated at branch terminal tips (can't quote a source right now). That is one reason current advise when transplanting is not to prune off limbs.

So what you did was place the buds on the seedlings you planted and stored them on the seedlings for a year. In the mean time you left on the original branches and terminal tips for better root growth and establishment. Now you pruned off that top and have a better root system for good vigorous growth this year.

I like that idea, which gives me another. Nurseries could winter bench bud, heat callous, then return to cold storage for spring shipment. They would then sell budded seedlings while the bud is dormant. The purchaser plant them, establish them, then prune off the top the following year.

Might work!

Jerry


  • Re: [NAFEX] slow grafts, plus, Jwlehman, 06/02/2006

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