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  • From: <clearviewfarm AT bluefrog.com>
  • To: "Market Farming" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Transplanting
  • Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 12:33:40 -0700

So, you folks are finding much better germination with transplanting compared to direct seeding?  I direct seeded about 1000 row feet last year, with pretty poor emergence. 

Kurt Forman
Clearview Farm
Palmyra, NY 14522
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

--- artisanfarms AT gmail.com wrote:

From: Andy Fellenz <artisanfarms AT gmail.com>
To: Market Farming <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Transplanting
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 12:14:40 -0400

Allan,

Here is a link to the importer:  http://smallfarmworks.com/

Andy

On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 11:30 AM, Allan Balliett Gmail <allan.balliett AT gmail.com> wrote:
Andy where do you get the paper pot equipment? 

Anyone have any suggestions on how to feed these starts if I'm going to leave  them longer in the small cells?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 6, 2012, at 10:30 AM, Andy Fellenz <artisanfarms AT gmail.com> wrote:

I transplant spinach 2-3 weeks after seeding with my paperpot transplanter.  They are set out after the first true leaves start to form.  The paper pot transplanter cell size is about the same size as a 288 cell tray.  The spinach generally does really well, although it has been suffering a little with the hot weather this summer. 

Andy

On Mon, Aug 6, 2012 at 10:25 AM, Allan Balliett Gmail <allan.balliett AT gmail.com> wrote:
Feel free to think "How long have you been doing this?"

I've started some spinach in 288 deep speedlings

I'd never get spinach to germ in a bed at current temps 

My thoughts are to pot the spinach up, maybe to 50s before putting them out. 

Kibitzers, though, are saying this time of year I should go from the starting tray to the bed "as with scallions"

What do you think?

If I do plant right out, at which leaf stage? 

Thanks

Allan in WV

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 6, 2012, at 9:44 AM, Carla Maness <manessfarm AT gmail.com> wrote:

Here in blazing hot Oklahoma, we grow beans in the spring and fall. We've tried summer beans, and the flowers drop off, even under shade cloth and we never get enough beans to justify the water it takes to keep them alive. They are attract spider mites worse than any other crop we have. 
Peppers we can pick maybe 3 times in early summer before they shut down, and that goes for hot peppers as well. We continue to water them all summer and we can get a really nice crop of large bell peppers once we start to cool down.
Eggplant does a little better, at least for us. We pick it all summer regardless of how hot it is. Production is down, but we are still harvesting. 
Tomatoes are holding their own this year.
Our biggest problem is squash. We have very little yellow squash. A bit more zucchini, which is the exact opposite of last year. I've been replanting every month trying to keep production up, but it's not working out very well. Between the heat and virus it's a lost cause.

Carla, Perkins, Ok where the whole state seems to be on fire. 
On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 8:31 PM, Road's End Farm <organic87 AT frontiernet.net> wrote:



On Aug 5, 2012, at 4:02 PM, Allan Balliett wrote:



[ . . . ]Mr. Google has let me down for locating a precise and authorative
explanation of reduced fruit set in peppers and eggplants and beans
due to high heat that  I can pass along to my CSA members this week.

I'm wondering if anyone reading this list can point me to such a
document (like from a University, or something)

Or, am I kidding myself and my peppers and eggplants have just quit
after one fruit set? [ . . . ]


Does this help?


They may start setting fruit again later, after the weather changes.


-- Rivka; Finger Lakes NY, Zone 6A now I think
Fresh-market organic produce, small scale


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