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  • From: "Tom & Melanie" <limerock AT thirdplanet.net>
  • To: "Market Farming" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
  • Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 16:55:44 -0400

I/we sucker all of ours, but they all are indeterminates and trellised.  I have suckered determinates before and wondered if I should have.  It has been sooo long that I do not remember what production was like when left alone.  I always second guess my course of action when other growers start harvesting their first set of toms from the lower limbs and I am waiting on the upper growth. 
 
All that being said, you only remove the fruiting trusses (the ones in the crotch) below that first flower cluster, leaving the lower flatter non-bearing leaf, not “all foliage.”  (At least that is what I was taught.)
 
Sometimes, I will leave the last truss below the flower on one plant and remove it from the next plant, alternating all down the row.  Sometimes I leave two below the flower. 
 
Was also told not to remove any growth pencil-size or larger as it really sets the plant back.
 
Tom
Near Lake Erie
(where the drought has just ended with over 2.25” TODAY
 
 
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 1:44 PM
Subject: [Market-farming] Tomato suckering, if and how
 
We've never suckered tomato plants before.  But we have about 800 out this year, 100 in High Tunnel and 700 in field.   2 feet apart in row, 3-4 feet between rows.   We grow early blight resistant varieties, and tend not to spray, only 1-2x per year if blight is getting bad.
 
We trellis with Florida weave, stake and string.
 
Should we make the time to remove all foliage and suckers below the first flower clusters? (We do have the labor.)
Different method for cherry toms, or between determinants and indeterminants?  Sucker some of those over others?
 
Thanks,
Richard Moyer
SW VA  In need of rain, late seeds just sitting in ground waiting.

 


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