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  • From: Rob <becida AT comcast.net>
  • To: homestead AT lists.ibiblio.org
  • Subject: [Homestead] Tvo post Feb 99 Was rock fenceposts, now high-tensile
  • Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 06:30:46 -0800

Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 12:45:15 -0500
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From: Tvoivozhd <tvoivozd AT roanoke.infi.net>
To: homestead AT listserv.oit.unc.edu
Subject: Was rock fenceposts, now high-tensile.
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Skeen wrote:

> >All my future fencing will be high-tensile electric
>
> I am particularly interested in this type of fence, but don't have much
> information much less knowledge about it. I've talked with people who swore
> by 10 wire, others by 8, and then I've seen a lot of 5 wire.

>>>tvoivozhd---the number of wires depends upon what animals you want to confine
or exclude. If you put wires very close to the ground to discourage small
animals such as raccoons, opossums, skunks etc., that part will ground out in
heavy grass or weeds unless you use a weedeater or herbicide---in which event
you use two fence chargers and isolate the bottom line or two or use (From
Premier) a current limiting device which prevents the grounded wires from
robbing the charge from the remaining ungrounded wires.

> What length
> does it take to be "cost effective", how straight does it have to be, what
> sort of support does it require, and what sort of insulation (if hot) is
> used. Is it like barbwire to install? I've also mainly considered it for
> perimeter fencing only -- is it feasible for other (particularly not in
> straight lines)?

>>>tvoivozhd: High tensile is basically for perimeter fences. It is feasible
for crossfences, but if they are moved a lot, you have to install a type of
endpost that is permanent, or that employs lightweight movable braces, or if
heavy (concreted tires) is moved by front end loader or three point tractor
lift.

The same consideration applies to straight lines. With bends in the fence,
the
posts have to be able to resist bending, i.e., fiberglas larger than 3/8"
diameter (not PVC), or lineposts that have ballast (concreted tires) or braced
lineposts. There are proprietary fittings on the market in which two or three
small-diameter posts are inserted to act as mutual bracing.

Where you have sufficient soil mantle over rock, a good, quick, cheap
alternative to conventional compression-braces for corner posts is a mobile home
tiedown screw-anchor. Place it five or six feet out on the outside corner and
run a heavy wire or cable from it around the top of the corner post.

For lineposts with bends in the line, you have the option of conventional
spool-tupe insulators fastened to a wooden post by wire loop or lagscrew, or
passing the electric line through a plastic tube bent around (and stapled) to
the outside of the post.

For cornerposts, the electric wire is fastened to the post by a "daisy" or other
line-tensioner, and a heavy duty spring, with an intervening insulator to the
post from the spring. The spring (on each side of the cornerpost) is usually
held by a wire passing through a plastic tube wrapped around the outside of
the
post, or by eyebolts/eye-lagscrews through or in a well-braced wooden post.

Don't even think about barbed wire. It will damage the installer, the
remover,
and your animals. If you electrify barbed wire it is in many states a
criminal
offense and in all states you are liable to anyone (or their animals) injured or
killed thereby---your insurance would be insufficient to avoid losing your
property, your bank account, all real and personal property in the ensuing
bankruptcy.

There is no excuse and no intelligent reason for installing barbed wire
anywhere..







y

>
>
> Everybody -- tell me all of your experience with high tensile fence.
>
> Denise




  • [Homestead] Tvo post Feb 99 Was rock fenceposts, now high-tensile, Rob, 12/23/2005

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