Yes, I do believe that wood can be too dry, not too dry to burn, but too
dry to put off any real heat for the length of time it burns. It burns
too fast.
Since it is our sweat that goes into cutting loading hauling
splitting stacking and moving wood, I want it to be just right. I want
it to be good and heavy when I pick in up, not light and airy.
The more I have to open the woodstove to put in wood, the more heat I lose up the flue. I have an old woodstove, no blowers, no fans,,,,it just burns wood and heats up the stove/rocks so that heat radiates.
We do use the lightweight-too dry wood to start the fire and early in
the life of the fire, but we just don't rely on that to put out any real
heat. We do mix the woods, heavier with lighter, depending on the time
of day and such, but still, for heat, we prefer the heavier, wetter,
wood with some 'life' still there.
They say that 20% is the goal for
firewood. I don't have a way to measure wood, but I have plenty of 2
foot in diameter oak logs out there that were cut in the fall. If they
had 60% moisture to begin with, they are probably still close to that
now. I don't believe it will really start noticeably drying until it is
split.
Another thing, Gene, is I really don't want 10 cords of wood split and
laying around. Bugs and termites and critters will reduce it to nothing
in 3 years.
As for the difficulty in splitting, that is the downside, but we have a
hydraulic wood splitter. If ours can't get the job done, our neighbor's
wood splitter surely can. His would split a pickup truck, I think. :)
If I start splitting in April, that means that the wood is about 8-9
months old. What is the difference between wood stored under my shed
and standing dead wood from a tree that died last summer?
And go ahead and persist..<g>..
Archive powered by MHonArc 2.6.24.