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nafex - Re: [NAFEX] Grape Pruning

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  • From: Suzi Teghtmeyer <srt175f@smsu.edu>
  • To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org, tolenio@sentex.net
  • Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Grape Pruning
  • Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:02:45 -0500

Tom,
On my AgNIC Viticulture Web site there are a number of freely available extension documents tat deal with pruning and training grapevine (as well as other grape-related topics.)
The site address is:
http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/viticulture1.html
click on 'Vineyard Practices' under Vineyard Management. You may also find some relevant information in 'Home Production' in the same category.

And I concur with Chris - "Sunlight into Wine" is a great book and worth the investment if grapes are a long term thing for you.
----Suzi
Librarian, Paul Evans Library of Fruit Science
Southwest Missouri State University Mtn. Grove Campus and Missouri Fruit Experiment Station
9740 Red Spring Rd, Mountain Grove, MO 65711
Phone: 417-926-4105, Fax: 417-926-6646, email: srt175f@smsu.edu
URL: http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/pelIndex.htm
AgNIC Viticulture site: http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/viticulture1.html
Member: CBHL, USAIN, ALA, ACRL, IAALD

At 09:49 AM 06/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:
Well, the answer can be "it depends". It may also depend on what grape you're growing, and
what you plan to use it for.

I can recommend a book, "Sunlight into Wine" by Dr. Richard Smart, but unless you can find
it available used or in a library it is cost prohibitive (~$50). It is aimed at commercial
wine production So it doesn't deal w/ arbors. But I can summarize some of it here:

1) Late mid-season, the vines should have grown about 10 to 12 leaves (on average) beyond
the fruiting clusters and have terminated growth (you can tell this by the fact that the
last leaf extends beyond the growth tip, if the growth tip is beyond the last leaf, its
still actively growing).
2) If you look at the "plane" of growth, you should have most 1-2 leaves between the
clusters and the sun. Some of this can be achieved by shoot positioning
3) If growth is too vigourous you can get into a "vegetative" cycle. Vine overgrows space,
so you are forced to cut it back, so it forces more growth (at the expense of fruiting).
4) Shoots should not be spaced too close together.


Three main ways to achieve the above:
1) Either spacing the vines far enough apart that the vines cover a large enought area that
each bud has reduced vigor.
2) Space vines very close together so that they compete for nutrients and are therefore
de-vigorated (this requires special training systems).
3) Shoot and leaf thinning plus "tipping". Usually shoot thinning earlier, and leaf
thinning around veraison (first coloring of the grapes).

I am concerned that you have too many vines for your arbor space. You have 100 square feet
of arbor space which gives you 25 sq. ft. per vine. I (on my vertical trellis) had 6 ft.
per vine on a 6 ft trellis or 36 sq. ft, and I don't think that this was enough space.
You are much further north, so maybe you'll have reduced vigor.

One other note: downward growing shoots generally stop growing on their own. The upward
growing ones would be the real problem as they would eventually flop over onto the other
shoots and over shade your clusters.

Chris Mauchline
SE PA, zone 6

<<
Hello,

I am relatively new to grapes and seek some advice.

Last year was the second year for the grape arbor. It is 10'x10 square and 8' high.

The 4 main vines now go up each of the corner posts and criss cross the timbers at the top. While it
was dormant I pruned back to the mains, and I have new fruiting shoots coming in (I am sorry that I
am using the wrong terminology).

My question is; Is any pruning performed during the growing season?

Shoots that are near cross members I train to the cross members with jute, but what about those
shooting out into space, away from the arbor, are they removed now, or left till dormant pruning?
Will a shoot hanging in open space stop growing for lack of support?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Regards,
Tom
>>





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