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  • From: "David Inglis" <mhcsa AT bcn.net>
  • To: "'Market Farming'" <market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: RE: [Market-farming] Flame Weeders
  • Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:56:19 -0500

Title: Message
Hi Marlin,
The following is some of what I have gleaned from 20 years of flaming.
It works really well when it works but, if your timing is off, or the weather is not conducive it 'sucks'. Flame weeding [FW] should not be tried on a crop you can not afford to lose or have time to replant.
I eliminate all hand weeding, in carrots, in about one in four crops, dramatically reduce weeding in a further two and completely lose the other.
If you miss the flaming prior to crop emergence scrap the crop.
FW is most effective against photo activated weed seeds.
The ability to irrigate greatly increases the effectiveness of the technique.
Weed germination must be separated from the crop germination by preparing a stale bed [a bed that is ready to plant but you hold off for some days before planting your crop ]. This point is the one that is most often omitted by the people who tell me it does not work.
The length of time required between preparing the bed and sowing the crop varies depending on the time of the season, the dominant weed you wish to control and the weather. This can only be learned through experience but a safe general plan can still be instituted. If I am busy, which is most of the time, I flame at 5 days after seeding no matter what and add a second FW just as my marker crop emerges. Marker crops make it easier to time the final FW by emerging a day or two ahead of the crop. E.g. in carrots this could be a few radishes and beets included in the seed mix or the same variety planted two days ahead of the main crop. This requires constant monitoring.
You can only FW row by row with a backpack type flamer. If you want to do the whole bed surface you will need a more expensive 3 point type.
Liquid phase flamers are much more dangerous than gas phase.
Nozzle should be 6" from the soil and pointed forward; some friends have built a cart to achieve this consistently. Walk as fast as you can with the nozzle going full blast.
Flame only when the dew is off, preferably with no cloud cover or wind.
FW will not heat the soil or damage organisms living there but will ruin the day of any spider within 2'; this is not insignificant.
Consider using a flamer to eliminate insects on a trap crop. We do this on Mexican Bean beetle, as recently described on this list, as well as Flea, potato [don't ask] and Cuc. Btl..
I know your question was about the equipment but I have found that the use of the equipment is what dictates the success or failure and until you get into tractor mounted systems there is little difference between the brands.
 
I hope this is helpful.
David Inglis
Mahaiwe Harvest C.S.A.
-----Original Message-----
From: market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:market-farming-bounces AT lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Marlin Burkholder
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 8:40 PM
To: market-farming AT lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [Market-farming] Flame Weeders

I am considering investing in some sort of flame weeder for the upcoming growing season.  I recently revisited Steve Meyer's article in the Feb 02 issue of GFM newsletter and have looked at some information on his website.  I just searched the Market Farming archives and didn't find anything.  I thought there had been some posts not so long ago on this topic.  So now I,m here to pick some brains on anyone's experiences with or advice regarding weed flaming equipment.  This will probably come as close as you will ever see me flaming on this list. ; ).
 
Marlin Burkholder
Glen Eco Farm
Virginia
 
PS  We got nearly 2 feet of snow in the big one.  Had lots of fun with it but could easily do without another one of that magnitude.  But it's snowing again as I type.


  • RE: [Market-farming] Flame Weeders, David Inglis, 02/28/2003

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