[nafex] Grafting Technique REQUEST

natelson at pipeline.com natelson at pipeline.com
Wed Apr 3 09:23:10 EDT 2013


That is a good suggestion and we will try to accomodate this.


-----Original Message-----
>From: rob hamilton <lostman_amiga at yahoo.com>
>Sent: Apr 3, 2013 7:22 AM
>To: nafex mailing list at ibiblio <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
>Subject: Re: [nafex] Grafting Technique REQUEST
>
>This reminds me.  
>
>
>We sometimes have a grafting demo at our meeting which real nice and appreciated, but I would like to see a second demonstration on some more advance or specialized techniques.  Some of the ones that nut growers use like "banana grafts" and repair methods like "inarching grafts". There are a few grafts that are difficult to explain by diagrams on the internet, and I would like to try some.
>
>
> 
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>________________________________
> From: "Jwlehman at aol.com" <Jwlehman at aol.com>
>To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org 
>Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 7:43 AM
>Subject: Re: [nafex] Best Grafting Technique
> 
>In a message dated 3/29/2013 1:27:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>alexis at conev.org writes:
>
>My question is as follows. Given that my methods work better, why does 
>budding seem to be the industry standard? > Seems like budding leads to 
>> buds that heal but don't grow.
>
>Hi Alexis,
>
>After healing or callousing are you cutting off the top to force the bud? 
>If spring budding cut off the area above the bus after callousing. If fall 
>budded wait until the following spring then cut off the area above the bud. 
>
>The bud used is dormant and often a secondary bud which nature has in 
>reserve in case the branch tip is damaged, like breaking off or freezing. Then 
>the reserve bud is activated and breaks dormancy. You don't want to force a 
>fall bud in the fall as it will likely go into winter too tender and suffer 
>severe winter damage. 
>
>Hope this answers your question. 
>
>Jerry
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