lovehd at comcast.net
Mon Aug 4 15:00:09 EDT 2008
The heat zone maps are based on the number of days per year in which the
temperatures exceed 86 degrees F (30 degrees C). Here is a link to the the
AHS heat zone map.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Plutko" <ernestplutko at wiktel.com>
To: <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
> What is the Difference between heat zone and cold zone?
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: lucky.pittman at murraystate.edu
> To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] figs
> Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2008 11:54:12 -0500
> >I'm in zone 6; albeit 'hot' zone 6, in southern west-central KY -
> >about 70 miles NW of Nashville TN.
> >For a number of years, I had several figs in-ground in my
> >orchard. For a couple of years, I tried covering them with piles of
> >leaves hauled home from residential areas in town. They all froze
> >back to the ground, whether covered or not, so I just stopped
> >bothering. Most would re-grow from the roots/crown, but rarely were
> >able to set and ripen fruits before freezing weather set in in Nov,
> >though I did get a good crop that ripened on LSU Purple one year.
> >Subsequently, I rooted cuttings from all I had in the ground, as well
> >as any other varieties I've accumulated since then, and keep them in
> >15-gallon pots, which I stick into the crawlspace underneath our
> >sunroom whenever temps start dropping into the 20s in late fall.
> >I still have a couple of survivors out there in the orchard - one of
> >which is LSU Purple; I've not looked recently, but guess I need to -
> >it may be ripening some figs now.
> >My biggest problem with potted figs is keeping them watered - they're
> >planted in a soilless potting mix, with extra pinebark fines mixed
> >in, so they're really well-drained, and if I don't water them daily,
> >they dry out rapidly. If I leave town for even a couple of days, I
> >can't really count on my wife or kids to water them adequately, and I
> >come home to wilted fig plants that have aborted their fruit.
> >I'm thinking about doing 'pot-in-pot' with them, to alleviate this
> >problem, but it'll require digging some pretty good-sized holes to
> >sink another 15-gallon pot in the ground to set the one containing
> >the fig into, but it should alleviate some of the problem with their
> >roots drying out - but then I might have a very difficult time
> >getting them up in the fall, as I'm sure they'd send some roots out
> >into the surrounding soil - it's very common for me to have cut some
> >pretty substantial roots that have exited drain holes in order to
> >move my pots in every fall..\
> >Lucky Pittman
> >USDA Cold Zone 6
> >AHS Heat Zone 7
> >Hopkinsville, KY
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