[NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)

Karen Tillou arboretum at homeorchardsociety.org
Sun Apr 6 00:29:26 EDT 2008



for Last Call, try their website:
http://www.advancedpheromonetech.com/

or call (this was pulled from a 2005 posting on an HOS forum so it  
might be out of date):
Philipp Kirsch
Entomologist
Advanced Pheromone Technologies Inc.
IPM Development Company Inc.
Marylhurst OR 97036
503-819-2269 cell
971-327-7129 work

good luck,
karen

oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet





On Apr 5, 2008, at 6:10 PM, Naomi wrote:

> Do you have a source for Last Call?
> Naomi
>
> From: nafex-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:nafex-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org 
> ] On Behalf Of Karen Tillou
> Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 7:04 PM
> To: North American Fruit Explorers
> Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
>
> patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple trees that i manage organically  
> here in the pacific northwest.
>
> the two uses for codling moth traps do not require different  
> pheremone lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps you  
> put out, as you suspected.  i use just a few traps to monitor the  
> emerging population each spring, but costs prevent me from buying  
> two traps for each tree to trap them out....
>
> there exists a product called "Last Call" that combines the codling  
> moth pheremone with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10  
> "droplets" scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was  
> the recommended #) - the male moths home in on the pheremone, but  
> die when they come in contact with the pesticide.  it is not OMRI  
> listed, because of the pesticide, but is much less destructive to  
> beneficial bugs than spraying.  if you have the time to apply the  
> stuff, i think it might be a good solution for a small orchard.
>
> my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side, for a small  
> orchard.  a group of us with small numbers of trees got together and  
> split the cost of one bottle, which has a shelf life of 18 months if  
> you freeze it between uses.  i have seen gradual reductions in my  
> codling moth populations over the three years of use, and that is  
> from a once or twice per year spray regime (terribly lazy, i know)  
> with no other controls beyond religious removal of windfalls during  
> the harvest period.
> my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees has also been happy with his  
> results.
>
> one organic grower i know splurged on his $300 bottle of virus,  
> sprayed it intensively every week during the first and second  
> generation egg hatch periods, and so completely wiped out his  
> population that he has not had to spray for the two years since.
>
> the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a 3 day life out in the  
> UV light, and must be injested by the larvae before they enter the  
> apples.  which means the best time for them to do that is as they  
> chew their way out of their egg cases.  WSU researchers Brunner and  
> Hoyt came up with a phenology model for the codling moth, linking  
> degree days to their egg hatching.  this model is available online,  
> where you can plug in a local weather station's data and find out  
> when the eggs are hatching, to better time your sprays.  i use the  
> site www.pnwpest.org/wea/  that has links to oregon, washington and  
> idaho weather stations.  (are there other sites out there for  
> different parts of the country?)
>
> i think part of my slow results from using the virus are from poor  
> timing, as it is inevitably raining the days i need to spray....
>
> hope this helps
> karen
>
> oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 5, 2008, at 10:21 AM, Patsy King wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the good info and clear explanations and the lure site,  
> Richard!  (And Doug, I think it was your info on beneficial plants  
> that I commented on and was so interested in earlier, though I  
> mistakenly replied about that to Mark)  Thanks to all who have ideas  
> to share.
>
> I want to try to find the waxed boxes like you use, Richard.  I had  
> heard that it does work best if the actual corrugations are against  
> the tree, as you described.  But with the cardboard I have found, I  
> usually am not able to peel off the smooth part on one side.  Maybe  
> I can do better at scavenging through some of the cardboard  
> recycling bins in my area and find better stuff to use.  Using that  
> kind (with the corrugations exposed every time you untie them) would  
> be a great advantage in that you can use them the whole season as  
> you say, and eliminate my having to burn the ones I use since the  
> larvae are not visible in mine, just blocked areas.
>
> In a recent Codling hint that came on this site, somebody (sorry--it  
> is on a different digest so I can't view it now and don't know who  
> wrote it) mentioned codling pheremone traps for 2 different uses,   
> monitoring vs. trapping out the entire population if possible.  I'm  
> unclear if the writer meant that there are 2 different lures or  
> whether it was just using more traps if one tries to trap out all  
> the moths rather than just monitor them.  Apparently a new codling  
> trap is in the works but not yet approved for sale.  It is supposed  
> to be both a lure and a killer using pyrethrin.  I'm not sure how  
> much better that would be than the lures already out, which kill the  
> moths when they get stuck on them anyway.
>
> Some info that I got recently about Cyd-x virus, which is supposed  
> to be a good organic biological control of codling moth:  I was told  
> that it is only effective on orchards of I believe it was 5 acres or  
> larger in size.  I have not been told the reason for this and wonder  
> what anybody out there knows about Cyd-x virus (also called Codling  
> Granulosis virus, I believe).  I called a company in Medford Oregon  
> that has the virus for sale, but the smallest amount sold is a quart  
> container that costs $300.  So I decided not to give it a try for  
> that reason as well!  ( I have about 40 apple trees, but only 3 are  
> large, and about 10 in all are bearing so far.
>
> I recently ordered a rechargeable backpack sprayer made by Hudson  
> and wanted to mention it to the group.  I have only used it twice so  
> far, so I may find later that it has some problems, but so far, my  
> experience has been a resounding positive.  I spray copper and other  
> things to control scab and peach leaf curl, etc, and even with my  
> mostly young trees, in the past I found it tiring to be constantly  
> pumping to maintain pressure in my SOLO brand backpack sprayer.   
> This new Hudson rechargeable is a bit heavier because of the battery  
> weight, but that difference is negligible to me, compared to the  
> vastly easier and quicker job of spraying without having to pump at  
> all!!!  I LOVED the new sprayer.  It also seemed to have a longer  
> spray range than my SOLO brand one, though not 30 or 50 feet or  
> whatever may have been mentioned in the Hudson reviews or info  
> somewhere on the net.  The hudson doesn't seem to have volume marks  
> on the tank, so that's a disadvantage, but again, that disadvantage  
> is a small one compared to the ease of spraying.
>
> --patsy king
>
>
> Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:14:28 -0400
> From: "Richard Moyer" <ramoyer at gmail.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Codling moth control
> To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
> Message-ID:
>        <619330e60804041914lc0e3c06qcfb9ff35e02be293 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Patsy,
> We've used molasses-vinegar traps, cardboard bands and coddling moth  
> lures
> in our home orchard of 10 bearing apple trees.  The lures (one  
> source is
> http://www.biconet.com/traps.html) will be more specific in what you  
> catch,
> though some beneficials still wander in.  Traps with lures are a  
> good way to
> ID the moths.  Molasses vinegar traps do bring in some beneficials and
> butterflies.  Check them the first morning you put them out and you  
> will see
> some moths if they are active.  Extension info can give you tips on  
> timing
> your traps.
>
> For the cardboard bands, we have used waxed cardboard boxes which  
> hold up
> for more than one year.   We cut them into strips about 6" wide,  
> peel the
> two layers apart and put the ridges toward the tree, tying them on  
> with
> twine or fastening the ends with velcro.  If your trees are larger  
> you can
> put one band around each major limb and the trunk above that.  Check
> the bands every 2 weeks in cooler weather, every 10 days in warmer.   
> Longer
> than that and some will hatch out into adult moths which lay many  
> eggs.  Our
> <.......snip...>
>
> Richard Moyer
>
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