[NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
dragon-star at cableone.net
Sat Apr 5 21:10:39 EDT 2008
Do you have a source for Last Call?
From: nafex-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org
[mailto:nafex-bounces at lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Karen Tillou
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 7:04 PM
To: North American Fruit Explorers
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
patsy - i have a maybe 100 apple trees that i manage organically here in the
the two uses for codling moth traps do not require different pheremone
lures, it is merely a matter of the number of traps you put out, as you
suspected. i use just a few traps to monitor the emerging population each
spring, but costs prevent me from buying two traps for each tree to trap
there exists a product called "Last Call" that combines the codling moth
pheremone with a synthetic pyrethrin pesticide - you apply 5-10 "droplets"
scattered on the branches of each tree (i think that was the recommended #)
- the male moths home in on the pheremone, but die when they come in contact
with the pesticide. it is not OMRI listed, because of the pesticide, but is
much less destructive to beneficial bugs than spraying. if you have the
time to apply the stuff, i think it might be a good solution for a small
my experience with CYD-X has been on the positive side, for a small orchard.
a group of us with small numbers of trees got together and split the cost of
one bottle, which has a shelf life of 18 months if you freeze it between
uses. i have seen gradual reductions in my codling moth populations over
the three years of use, and that is from a once or twice per year spray
regime (terribly lazy, i know) with no other controls beyond religious
removal of windfalls during the harvest period.
my neighbor and his 20-30 big old trees has also been happy with his
one organic grower i know splurged on his $300 bottle of virus, sprayed it
intensively every week during the first and second generation egg hatch
periods, and so completely wiped out his population that he has not had to
spray for the two years since.
the thing with CYD-X is timing: it has only a 3 day life out in the UV
light, and must be injested by the larvae before they enter the apples.
which means the best time for them to do that is as they chew their way out
of their egg cases. WSU researchers Brunner and Hoyt came up with a
phenology model for the codling moth, linking degree days to their egg
hatching. this model is available online, where you can plug in a local
weather station's data and find out when the eggs are hatching, to better
time your sprays. i use the site www.pnwpest.org/wea/ that has links to
oregon, washington and idaho weather stations. (are there other sites out
there for different parts of the country?)
i think part of my slow results from using the virus are from poor timing,
as it is inevitably raining the days i need to spray....
hope this helps
oregon city, OR - zone 8a and wet
On Apr 5, 2008, at 10:21 AM, Patsy King wrote:
Thanks for the good info and clear explanations and the lure site, Richard!
(And Doug, I think it was your info on beneficial plants that I commented on
and was so interested in earlier, though I mistakenly replied about that to
Mark) Thanks to all who have ideas to share.
I want to try to find the waxed boxes like you use, Richard. I had heard
that it does work best if the actual corrugations are against the tree, as
you described. But with the cardboard I have found, I usually am not able
to peel off the smooth part on one side. Maybe I can do better at
scavenging through some of the cardboard recycling bins in my area and find
better stuff to use. Using that kind (with the corrugations exposed every
time you untie them) would be a great advantage in that you can use them the
whole season as you say, and eliminate my having to burn the ones I use
since the larvae are not visible in mine, just blocked areas.
In a recent Codling hint that came on this site, somebody (sorry--it is on a
different digest so I can't view it now and don't know who wrote it)
mentioned codling pheremone traps for 2 different uses, monitoring vs.
trapping out the entire population if possible. I'm unclear if the writer
meant that there are 2 different lures or whether it was just using more
traps if one tries to trap out all the moths rather than just monitor them.
Apparently a new codling trap is in the works but not yet approved for sale.
It is supposed to be both a lure and a killer using pyrethrin. I'm not sure
how much better that would be than the lures already out, which kill the
moths when they get stuck on them anyway.
Some info that I got recently about Cyd-x virus, which is supposed to be a
good organic biological control of codling moth: I was told that it is only
effective on orchards of I believe it was 5 acres or larger in size. I have
not been told the reason for this and wonder what anybody out there knows
about Cyd-x virus (also called Codling Granulosis virus, I believe). I
called a company in Medford Oregon that has the virus for sale, but the
smallest amount sold is a quart container that costs $300. So I decided not
to give it a try for that reason as well! ( I have about 40 apple trees,
but only 3 are large, and about 10 in all are bearing so far.
I recently ordered a rechargeable backpack sprayer made by Hudson and wanted
to mention it to the group. I have only used it twice so far, so I may find
later that it has some problems, but so far, my experience has been a
resounding positive. I spray copper and other things to control scab and
peach leaf curl, etc, and even with my mostly young trees, in the past I
found it tiring to be constantly pumping to maintain pressure in my SOLO
brand backpack sprayer. This new Hudson rechargeable is a bit heavier
because of the battery weight, but that difference is negligible to me,
compared to the vastly easier and quicker job of spraying without having to
pump at all!!! I LOVED the new sprayer. It also seemed to have a longer
spray range than my SOLO brand one, though not 30 or 50 feet or whatever may
have been mentioned in the Hudson reviews or info somewhere on the net. The
hudson doesn't seem to have volume marks on the tank, so that's a
disadvantage, but again, that disadvantage is a small one compared to the
ease of spraying.
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:14:28 -0400
From: "Richard Moyer" <ramoyer at gmail.com>
Subject: [NAFEX] Codling moth control
To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
<619330e60804041914lc0e3c06qcfb9ff35e02be293 at mail.gmail.com>
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We've used molasses-vinegar traps, cardboard bands and coddling moth lures
in our home orchard of 10 bearing apple trees. The lures (one source is
http://www.biconet.com/traps.html) will be more specific in what you catch,
though some beneficials still wander in. Traps with lures are a good way to
ID the moths. Molasses vinegar traps do bring in some beneficials and
butterflies. Check them the first morning you put them out and you will see
some moths if they are active. Extension info can give you tips on timing
For the cardboard bands, we have used waxed cardboard boxes which hold up
for more than one year. We cut them into strips about 6" wide, peel the
two layers apart and put the ridges toward the tree, tying them on with
twine or fastening the ends with velcro. If your trees are larger you can
put one band around each major limb and the trunk above that. Check
the bands every 2 weeks in cooler weather, every 10 days in warmer. Longer
than that and some will hatch out into adult moths which lay many eggs. Our
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