[NAFEX] Codling Moth Control (Richard Moyer's)
pking888 at gmail.com
Sat Apr 5 13:21:51 EDT 2008
Thanks for the good info and clear explanations and the lure site, Richard!
(And Doug, I think it was your info on beneficial plants that I commented on
and was so interested in earlier, though I mistakenly replied about that to
Mark) Thanks to all who have ideas to share.
I want to try to find the waxed boxes like you use, Richard. I had heard
that it does work best if the actual corrugations are against the tree, as
you described. But with the cardboard I have found, I usually am not able
to peel off the smooth part on one side. Maybe I can do better at
scavenging through some of the cardboard recycling bins in my area and find
better stuff to use. Using that kind (with the corrugations exposed every
time you untie them) would be a great advantage in that you can use them the
whole season as you say, and eliminate my having to burn the ones I use
since the larvae are not visible in mine, just blocked areas.
In a recent Codling hint that came on this site, somebody (sorry--it is on a
different digest so I can't view it now and don't know who wrote it)
mentioned codling pheremone traps for 2 different uses, monitoring vs.
trapping out the entire population if possible. I'm unclear if the writer
meant that there are 2 different lures or whether it was just using more
traps if one tries to trap out all the moths rather than just monitor them.
Apparently a new codling trap is in the works but not yet approved for
sale. It is supposed to be both a lure and a killer using pyrethrin. I'm
not sure how much better that would be than the lures already out, which
kill the moths when they get stuck on them anyway.
Some info that I got recently about Cyd-x virus, which is supposed to be a
good organic biological control of codling moth: I was told that it is only
effective on orchards of I believe it was 5 acres or larger in size. I have
not been told the reason for this and wonder what anybody out there knows
about Cyd-x virus (also called Codling Granulosis virus, I believe). I
called a company in Medford Oregon that has the virus for sale, but the
smallest amount sold is a quart container that costs $300. So I decided not
to give it a try for that reason as well! ( I have about 40 apple trees,
but only 3 are large, and about 10 in all are bearing so far.
I recently ordered a rechargeable backpack sprayer made by Hudson and wanted
to mention it to the group. I have only used it twice so far, so I may find
later that it has some problems, but so far, my experience has been a
resounding positive. I spray copper and other things to control scab and
peach leaf curl, etc, and even with my mostly young trees, in the past I
found it tiring to be constantly pumping to maintain pressure in my SOLO
brand backpack sprayer. This new Hudson rechargeable is a bit heavier
because of the battery weight, but that difference is negligible to me,
compared to the vastly easier and quicker job of spraying without having to
pump at all!!! I LOVED the new sprayer. It also seemed to have a longer
spray range than my SOLO brand one, though not 30 or 50 feet or whatever may
have been mentioned in the Hudson reviews or info somewhere on the net. The
hudson doesn't seem to have volume marks on the tank, so that's a
disadvantage, but again, that disadvantage is a small one compared to the
ease of spraying.
> Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 22:14:28 -0400
> From: "Richard Moyer" <ramoyer at gmail.com>
> Subject: [NAFEX] Codling moth control
> To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org
> <619330e60804041914lc0e3c06qcfb9ff35e02be293 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> We've used molasses-vinegar traps, cardboard bands and coddling moth lures
> in our home orchard of 10 bearing apple trees. The lures (one source is
> http://www.biconet.com/traps.html) will be more specific in what you
> though some beneficials still wander in. Traps with lures are a good way
> ID the moths. Molasses vinegar traps do bring in some beneficials and
> butterflies. Check them the first morning you put them out and you will
> some moths if they are active. Extension info can give you tips on timing
> your traps.
> For the cardboard bands, we have used waxed cardboard boxes which hold up
> for more than one year. We cut them into strips about 6" wide, peel the
> two layers apart and put the ridges toward the tree, tying them on with
> twine or fastening the ends with velcro. If your trees are larger you can
> put one band around each major limb and the trunk above that. Check
> the bands every 2 weeks in cooler weather, every 10 days in warmer.
> than that and some will hatch out into adult moths which lay many eggs.
> Richard Moyer
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