[NAFEX] fruit in shade and D. virginiana

John Smith friendly27sw at yahoo.com
Thu Nov 8 18:18:35 EST 2007


I have a native persimmon that grew directly north of
a large shingle oak where it received shade most of
the day.  This tree was very crooked and strangely
formed as it tried to reach towards the light, but it
produced what I thought was a really nice crop of very
sweet persimmons the first two years I have lived
here. This past June the oak suddenly died from oak
wilt and I cut it down, giving the persimmon full sun.
 The fruit are still very sweet but nearly twice as
big as they were previously.  On a related note, does
anyone have a way to efficiently remove the seeds from
persimmon pulp without separating them by hand for
hours? 

zone 5b central Missouri
--- Mark & Helen Angermayer <hangermayer at isp.com>
wrote:

> Helpful information Alan.  Question: You mention
> earlier ripening fruit would be more likely to get
> adequate sun in a shady area.  Why is that?
> 
> Also do you know how well D. virginiana tolerates
> shade?  Will it still produce sweet fruit in shade?
> 
> My observations on shade:  I planted many brambles
> in full sun, but a couple of plants in shade.  The
> shaded ones have done poorly so far.  Also
> strawberries beside the house never seem to produce
> a sweetness up to my standards.  Again I suspect
> it's shade.  Have two identical pear trees, one in
> more shade than the other.  Although they haven't
> fruited, there's a remarkable difference in vigor. 
> Similar observation with tomatoes.  Makes me think,
> you can either grow food or shade, but not both.
> 
> Mark
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Alan Haigh 
>   To: nafex at lists.ibiblio.org 
>   Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:36 AM
>   Subject: [NAFEX] fruit that grows well in shade
> 
> 
>        Here's a contribution to the question of what
> fruit does well in the shade.  You probably already
> know the traditional answer of currants and
> gooseberries but the following are some of my
> personal observations.  This is something I've
> looked at a lot because of all the non-commercial
> sites (home and estate orchards) I manage.  These
> sites are often solar challenged because my region
> in southeastern NY is essentially forest. 
>        First of all, the earlier the fruit ripens
> the more likely it is to get adequate sun- think
> cherries, mulberries, Japanese plums, apricots, and
> early peaches.  Also think of the sweetest cultivars
> or at least those highest in soluable solids.  I was
> surprised to discover that the Elephantheart plum
> growing on my property in about 70% shade was
> capable of fairly reliably producing large harvests
> of amazingly sweet fruit- the shade probably
> actually delays flowering a bit.  E.H is one of the
> latest Japanese plums we grow here.  Earlier ones
> like Methely and Shiro are at least equally shade
> tolerant.  Ozark Premier seems not to be.
>        Of course many European plums have extremely
> high levels of soluble solids but in limited
> experience I have found them not to be shade
> productive.  It's strange that on wet years with
> lots of cloud cover the Europeans sweeten up very
> well so I'm a little confused at how poorly they
> seem to do in less than about 70% exposure.  Of
> course their high susceptibilty to brown-rot
> increases the liability of shade. 
>        On apples I have even less conclusive
> evaluations.  I have seen Baldwin produce a few
> tastey apples in complete shade and because it
> continues to ripen after most of our forest trees
> have defoliated it may pick up some late sugar. 
> Northern Spy seems to need a lot of sun. Baldwin is
> a high-brix apple and Spy not so much.  I would
> suggest that appples that produce adequate sugar
> throughout the tree, where seconds (the smaller less
> colored fruit) are of good quality are likely to do
> well in relatively shady sites.  Fuji is an example
> of such an apple and it is extremely high in soluble
> solids. 
>         Asian pears seem to do poorly in the shade
> because they need to obtain very high levels of
> sugar to have any flavor at all.  Bartlett and
> Seckel do pretty well while Highland and Aurora do
> not.
>         Most of the smaller non-tree fruits we grow
> here are fairly shade tolerant- you know,
> blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, kiwis and so
> on.  If you like paw-paws or autumn olive (I like
> the first, not the second) they certainly tolerate
> some shade. 
>          That's about the extent of the contribution
> I can make.  While it's good to know that you don't
> need absolute sun to produce some quality fruit that
> doesn't stop me from being a fanatic for full sun. 
> Those couple of extra hours of sun at the beginning
> and end of each day can make the differnce between
> good and exceptional  fruit for many varieties.  I'd
> certainly appreciate some input on this subject from
> othere list members. 
> 
> 
> 
>
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