*****SPAM***** Re: [NAFEX] Grafting-where did I go wrong

Tom Olenio tolenio at sentex.net
Sun Jan 25 10:08:26 EST 2004


Hello,

In a grafting workshop I took at the University of Guelph, held by Professor Henry Kock,
Interpretive Horticulturist, he indicated the key was sealing moisture into the scion while the
graft healed.

He has used Wilson pruning paint for hundreds of thousands of grafts of various trees and shrubs.

The advantage of the pruning paint is that the buds will grow through it, when they are ready too
and the pruning paint will not move around much (get under the rubber).

You paint over the grafting rubber, and the entire scion.  This seals moisture in.  In a year or
two after the graft is made, you will no longer see any evidence of the pruning paint.

He does NOT recommend using pruning paint for pruning cuts.

I have used his technique to great success.  I was given an can of old grafting wax recently and
this season will try using it to seal the union and scion.  Not sure if the heat of the warm wax
will injure the buds or not.

Later,
Tom

list at ginda.us wrote:

> I wonder if the paint might have crept between the scion and the stock?
>    I would seal the graft with something that will stay where you put
> it.  Either a film (I've had decent success with strips of thin plastic
> bag from the supermarket) or something thick and gunky, like wax or
> grafting compound.
>
> Ginda
>
> On Jan 24, 2004, at 3:09 PM, Gary Woods wrote:
>
> > Stop me before I murder some more perfectly good scions:
> >
> > Last spring, I got several apple scions through the Seed Saver's
> > Exchange.
> > I had read up on grafting, attended a session at the meet in Decorah
> > the
> > previous summer, got a nice sharp knife that passed the thumb test
> > (fortunately, the cut was so clean it healed quickly!), and all that.
> >
> > I made a number of grafts, cleft ones in an attempt to "top work" an
> > ancient boundary row apple on growth perhaps an inch in diameter, an
> > inlay
> > (?) graft on similar growth, and a number of whip-and-tongue ones on a
> > lackluster red delicious in the back yard.  I had misplaced some
> > acrylic
> > sealer I bought, so used the heavy bottom gunk from  an old can of
> > acrylic
> > house paint to seal the grafts after taping them with some
> > biodegradable
> > grafting tape bought at the same time as the knife and the "Doc
> > Farwell's
> > Grafting Seal," which I found a week after doing all this.
> >
> > The base trees had broken dormancy and were starting to flower; scions
> > had
> > been kept in a plastic bag in the vegetable bin in the fridge and were
> > still dormant; nice green cambium visible when I made the cuts;
> > everything
> > lined up, I hope correctly.  The success rate was, I think zero, though
> > some scions had green under the bark into fall, so I didn't cut
> > anything
> > off, hoping they may "break" this spring.
> >
> > I know there's as much art as science in this; have I given enough
> > information to go on?   I have Ed Fackler's book, which Dan Busey of
> > Seed
> > Savers swears is all anybody needs.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > Gary Woods AKA K2AHC- PGP key on request, or at www.albany.net/~gwoods
> > Zone 5/6 in upstate New York, 1420' elevation. NY WO G
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--
Thomas Olenio
Ontario, Canada
Hardiness Zone 5b





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