[NAFEX] misting chambers

Tom Olenio tolenio at sentex.net
Wed May 14 12:53:18 EDT 2003


Hi,

Lon can correct me, but I believe water from a dehumidfier would have a lot of contamination from
mold and fungus.

The cooling fins of the dehumidfier would collect a lot of spores, as air was pushed through
them.  These spores would eventually drip into the collection pail.

My guess is that it would be hard to keep the water free of mold and fungus spores, and this
would not help a rooting situation.

Later,
Tom



Helga and Bert Dunn wrote:

> one more thought Tom or Lon
> Would water from a dehumidifier be even a touch better?
> Cheers            Bert
>
> Bert Dunn   RR4 Tottenham   Ont    zone 4b
> www.hardygrapes.tottenham.on.ca
> THINK BLENDING, NOT VARIETALS
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Olenio" <tolenio at sentex.net>
> To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 8:11 AM
> > Hello,
> >
> > This is a question for an expert, possiblyy Lon...
> >
> > In a misting chamber does it matter if your water is hard?  What about
> rain water, or water that
> > has gone through a water softner?
> >
> > My instincts tell me that rain water may be slightly acid, but it would be
> better than hard water
> > leaving deposits on the leaves, and softened water laying salt.  I suppose
> that city water that was
> > not hard would be OK, and the chlorine in it would act as a mild
> fungicide.
> >
> > Any opinions or doesn't it matter in a misting chamber?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Tom
> >
> > Tom Olenio wrote:
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > The simplest small scale method to build a misting chamber is to create
> frame, cover it with
> > > plastic, creating a small greenhouse.  Then place an ultrasonic
> humidifier inside it.  Lighting
> > > can be added if you desire it.
> > >
> > > Later,
> > > Tom
> > >
> > > rob hamilton wrote:
> > >
> > > > Are there any low-price misting chambers for the
> > > > hobbist or plans availible to make your own?
> > > >
> > > > --- "Lon J. Rombough" <lonrom at hevanet.com> wrote:
> > > > > That's about the worst time to root them.  Once the
> > > > > buds break, the cuttings
> > > > > won't root.  Much easier to wait a few weeks and
> > > > > root some green cuttings
> > > > > under mist.  Or take dormant cuttings in the fall
> > > > > and plant them in moist
> > > > > sand on the sheltered side of a building.  When they
> > > > > leaf out in spring they
> > > > > are rooted and can be set out.   I used to do it for
> > > > > a big berry nursery.
> > > > > -Lon Rombough
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Tom Olenio <tolenio at sentex.net>
> > > > > Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers
> > > > > <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
> > > > > Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 18:34:42 -0400
> > > > > To: North American Fruit Explorers
> > > > > <nafex at lists.ibiblio.org>
> > > > > Subject: [NAFEX] Rooting ribes
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello,
> > > > >
> > > > > What is the best method to root currants early in
> > > > > the spring, when the plant
> > > > > is no longer dormant?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Tom
> > > > >
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> > > --
> > > Thomas Olenio
> > > Ontario, Canada
> > > Hardiness Zone 5b
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> > Thomas Olenio
> > Ontario, Canada
> > Hardiness Zone 5b
> >
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--
Thomas Olenio
Ontario, Canada
Hardiness Zone 5b





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