[NAFEX] RE: Beautiful Fruits

Lon J. Rombough lonrom at hevanet.com
Fri Apr 4 16:55:06 EST 2003


That's a really tricky graft as you have to have just the right conditions
to get the bud to heal without having the stock bleeding enough to push it
out.  I've written about a method I use that is far more certain - grafting
dormant one bud scions to green shoots.  No bleeding and the tissues of the
stock are growing actively so they heal much better.
-Lon Rombough
Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at
http://www.bunchgrapes.com




This came from a Texas A&M website.  Anyone done this with success?

Q: What is the correct grafting procedure for grapes and muscadines. I have
uncessfully attempted to graft cultivated varieties of both onto wild
established and vigorous rootstock in an attempt obtain productive vines
early. I normally have good success using normal grafting techniques on
plums, mayhaws, and pecans. A different technique may be needed for grapes.
Any advice or alternate source of information you can provide would be
appreciated. 
A: The best way to graft grapes is to use a "T" bud. It can be used on both
old as well as young vines. The key to making the technique work is to make
a "bleed cut" about one to two inches below the "T" cut. In this way the
vine bleeds at this cut and not at the "T" above. If the vine bleeds at the
"T" cut, the bud cannot heal.
The "T" or shield bud is outlined in detail at the following site:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/propagation.html This
technique is best used in early to mid-spring; do not try too early though
as the sap from the vine will be excessive. You will need to cut and store
buds in January or February. 

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