[NAFEX] Grape Pruning
srt175f at smsu.edu
Thu Jun 27 10:02:45 EDT 2002
On my AgNIC Viticulture Web site there are a number of freely available
extension documents tat deal with pruning and training grapevine (as well
as other grape-related topics.)
The site address is:
click on 'Vineyard Practices' under Vineyard Management. You may also find
some relevant information in 'Home Production' in the same category.
And I concur with Chris - "Sunlight into Wine" is a great book and worth
the investment if grapes are a long term thing for you.
Librarian, Paul Evans Library of Fruit Science
Southwest Missouri State University Mtn. Grove Campus and Missouri Fruit
9740 Red Spring Rd, Mountain Grove, MO 65711
Phone: 417-926-4105, Fax: 417-926-6646, email: srt175f at smsu.edu
AgNIC Viticulture site: http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/viticulture1.html
Member: CBHL, USAIN, ALA, ACRL, IAALD
At 09:49 AM 06/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, the answer can be "it depends". It may also depend on what grape
>you're growing, and
>what you plan to use it for.
>I can recommend a book, "Sunlight into Wine" by Dr. Richard Smart, but
>unless you can find
>it available used or in a library it is cost prohibitive (~$50). It is
>aimed at commercial
>wine production So it doesn't deal w/ arbors. But I can summarize some of
>1) Late mid-season, the vines should have grown about 10 to 12 leaves (on
>the fruiting clusters and have terminated growth (you can tell this by the
>fact that the
>last leaf extends beyond the growth tip, if the growth tip is beyond the
>last leaf, its
>still actively growing).
>2) If you look at the "plane" of growth, you should have most 1-2 leaves
>clusters and the sun. Some of this can be achieved by shoot positioning
>3) If growth is too vigourous you can get into a "vegetative" cycle. Vine
>so you are forced to cut it back, so it forces more growth (at the expense
>4) Shoots should not be spaced too close together.
>Three main ways to achieve the above:
>1) Either spacing the vines far enough apart that the vines cover a large
>enought area that
>each bud has reduced vigor.
>2) Space vines very close together so that they compete for nutrients and
>de-vigorated (this requires special training systems).
>3) Shoot and leaf thinning plus "tipping". Usually shoot thinning
>earlier, and leaf
>thinning around veraison (first coloring of the grapes).
>I am concerned that you have too many vines for your arbor space. You
>have 100 square feet
>of arbor space which gives you 25 sq. ft. per vine. I (on my vertical
>trellis) had 6 ft.
>per vine on a 6 ft trellis or 36 sq. ft, and I don't think that this was
>You are much further north, so maybe you'll have reduced vigor.
>One other note: downward growing shoots generally stop growing on their
>own. The upward
>growing ones would be the real problem as they would eventually flop over
>onto the other
>shoots and over shade your clusters.
>SE PA, zone 6
>I am relatively new to grapes and seek some advice.
>Last year was the second year for the grape arbor. It is 10'x10 square
>and 8' high.
>The 4 main vines now go up each of the corner posts and criss cross the
>timbers at the top. While it
>was dormant I pruned back to the mains, and I have new fruiting shoots
>coming in (I am sorry that I
>am using the wrong terminology).
>My question is; Is any pruning performed during the growing season?
>Shoots that are near cross members I train to the cross members with jute,
>but what about those
>shooting out into space, away from the arbor, are they removed now, or
>left till dormant pruning?
>Will a shoot hanging in open space stop growing for lack of support?
>Thanks for any help you can offer.
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