[NAFEX] Grape Pruning
Suzi Teghtmeyer
srt175f at smsu.edu
Thu Jun 27 10:02:45 EDT 2002
Tom,
On my AgNIC Viticulture Web site there are a number of freely available
extension documents tat deal with pruning and training grapevine (as well
as other grape-related topics.)
The site address is:
http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/viticulture1.html
click on 'Vineyard Practices' under Vineyard Management. You may also find
some relevant information in 'Home Production' in the same category.
And I concur with Chris - "Sunlight into Wine" is a great book and worth
the investment if grapes are a long term thing for you.
----Suzi
Librarian, Paul Evans Library of Fruit Science
Southwest Missouri State University Mtn. Grove Campus and Missouri Fruit
Experiment Station
9740 Red Spring Rd, Mountain Grove, MO 65711
Phone: 417-926-4105, Fax: 417-926-6646, email: srt175f at smsu.edu
URL: http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/pelIndex.htm
AgNIC Viticulture site: http://library.smsu.edu/paulevans/viticulture1.html
Member: CBHL, USAIN, ALA, ACRL, IAALD
At 09:49 AM 06/27/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Well, the answer can be "it depends". It may also depend on what grape
>you're growing, and
>what you plan to use it for.
>
>I can recommend a book, "Sunlight into Wine" by Dr. Richard Smart, but
>unless you can find
>it available used or in a library it is cost prohibitive (~$50). It is
>aimed at commercial
>wine production So it doesn't deal w/ arbors. But I can summarize some of
>it here:
>
>1) Late mid-season, the vines should have grown about 10 to 12 leaves (on
>average) beyond
>the fruiting clusters and have terminated growth (you can tell this by the
>fact that the
>last leaf extends beyond the growth tip, if the growth tip is beyond the
>last leaf, its
>still actively growing).
>2) If you look at the "plane" of growth, you should have most 1-2 leaves
>between the
>clusters and the sun. Some of this can be achieved by shoot positioning
>3) If growth is too vigourous you can get into a "vegetative" cycle. Vine
>overgrows space,
>so you are forced to cut it back, so it forces more growth (at the expense
>of fruiting).
>4) Shoots should not be spaced too close together.
>
>
>Three main ways to achieve the above:
>1) Either spacing the vines far enough apart that the vines cover a large
>enought area that
>each bud has reduced vigor.
>2) Space vines very close together so that they compete for nutrients and
>are therefore
>de-vigorated (this requires special training systems).
>3) Shoot and leaf thinning plus "tipping". Usually shoot thinning
>earlier, and leaf
>thinning around veraison (first coloring of the grapes).
>
>I am concerned that you have too many vines for your arbor space. You
>have 100 square feet
>of arbor space which gives you 25 sq. ft. per vine. I (on my vertical
>trellis) had 6 ft.
>per vine on a 6 ft trellis or 36 sq. ft, and I don't think that this was
>enough space.
>You are much further north, so maybe you'll have reduced vigor.
>
>One other note: downward growing shoots generally stop growing on their
>own. The upward
>growing ones would be the real problem as they would eventually flop over
>onto the other
>shoots and over shade your clusters.
>
>Chris Mauchline
>SE PA, zone 6
>
><<
>Hello,
>
>I am relatively new to grapes and seek some advice.
>
>Last year was the second year for the grape arbor. It is 10'x10 square
>and 8' high.
>
>The 4 main vines now go up each of the corner posts and criss cross the
>timbers at the top. While it
>was dormant I pruned back to the mains, and I have new fruiting shoots
>coming in (I am sorry that I
>am using the wrong terminology).
>
>My question is; Is any pruning performed during the growing season?
>
>Shoots that are near cross members I train to the cross members with jute,
>but what about those
>shooting out into space, away from the arbor, are they removed now, or
>left till dormant pruning?
>Will a shoot hanging in open space stop growing for lack of support?
>
>Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>Regards,
>Tom
> >>
More information about the nafex
mailing list