*Why are we concerned about nutritional quality? *
1. The nutritional content of fruits & veggies has trended downward over
the last century
Commercial considerations make "yield" (profit) the primary consideration
in breeding and fertilizing rather than best nutrient content, which is
harder to measure
But breeding & fertilizing for "yield" brings reduced nutrition (See
Albrecht Principles
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/AlbrechtPrinciples.htm>)
- Loss of organic matter
- Loss of soil microorganisms
- Loss of top soil
- Water pollution
- Depletion of soil minerals brings reduced nutrition
- Increased vulnerability to pest attack - *Truly healthy plants do not
attract pests!*
3. There are large variations in the nutritional quality of 'organic'
fruits & veggies
4. Animals living on these nutrient poor foods are not as healthy
5. Traditional societies living on local, whole, nutrient-dense foods
were healthy and lived long lives. Our modern diet makes us subjects of a
giant food experiment, and we are not faring so well, as we suffer from
more degenerative diseases at an ever younger age.
6. Varietal differences are important. - the highest nutrition will be
more likely found in heirloom varieties.
- Varietal differences in * flavor* indicate differences in nutritional
content - More nutritious food tastes better.
- Over history humans unintentionally bred their food crops for higher
nutrition, as the families who selected tastier and healthier foods had
healthier children. Every family had its own varieties, selected according
to the likes of that family. But the children in some families lived to
survive the gauntlet of childhood disease while the children in some
families died out. The families with higher survival rates had their
varieties survive. Thus our food crops were improved.
- Then about 150 years ago plant breeders began selecting our food crops
for profit. Modern hybrids are bred to yield well on depleted soils given
modern chemical fertilizers that do not provide the full range of needed
minerals. Hybrids grow big but do not build essential nutrients as well
because of mineral shortages.
Brix as used here refers to the total dissolved solids in the juice
squeezed out of a plant's leaves or fruit. Distilled water is 0 brix.
About the richest brix you will see is 30-35. Although you will hear that
brix measures "sugar," brix actually reflects the total solids - the sum of
the sugars, minerals, hormones, oils, amino acids, proteins, flavors, and
whatever else. For instance, 100 pounds of 24 brix grape juice would yield
24 pounds of solids. Brix is measured with an ordinary hand refractometer,
which many people call a brixmeter. See High Brix Gardening
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/HiBrix.htm> More info on brix
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/SoilTesting.htm#Brix%20Testing>
1. The taste of any fruit, vegetable, or grass gets better and better as
the brix increases. Taste reflects nutrition, as the plant has
everything
it needs to produce maximum nutrition (phytonutrients) as well as sugar.
2. The highest brix fruits, vegetables, and grasses keep better -
they will dehydrate while their low brix counterparts rot.
3. Sucking insects seem to find higher brix plants less tasteful even
as higher order animals, like man, find them exceedingly tasty.
4. Animals on high brix pasture are much healthier
Or inquire of Charlie at chardowner@yahoo.com, and he'll email more
info. He has Chinese Westovers with quite good optics, a two year
guarantee, and at rock bottom prices. This is his company:
National Industrial Supply
2767 Maricopa Street
Torrance, CA 90503
Phone: 310.748.6858
Fax: 310.833.7306
*What is needed for growing topnotch produce* - "High Brix levels result
when all plant nutrients are available, in an efficient form, to the soil
microbes which are responsible for rendering nutrients into a form that the
plant can readily use. That translates into a non-labile form of organic
nutrient that is at about 6.2 pH and that efficiently feeds a healthy
colony of the right type of microbes in the soil." John Marler See High
Brix Gardening <http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/HiBrix.htm>
*To reach their full potential to produce high brix results plants need:*
*Maintaining growth throughout the season* is important for obtaining high
brix results. It can be done in three ways:
- *Side dressings* are by definition fertilizers that contain a full
complement of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium (See Making Your Own Soil
<http://71.66.232.95/Classes/MakeYourOwnSoil.pdf> by A.F Beddoe) and
other minerals (such as COF
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/CompleteOrgFertilizer.pdf>). Side
dressings are scattered lightly around growing plants every three or four
weeks to boost nutrition.
- *Nutrient drenches
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/foliarfertilizers.htm>* are, in
effect, soluble side dressings dissolved in water and used to fertilize
plants throughout the season to support growth. See also Foliar Spray info
below.
- *Foliar Sprays* - Fine-tuning with foliar sprays and nutrient drenches
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/foliarfertilizers.htm> to supply
nutrients in short supply - use Brix testing to evaluate what you are
doing. (See Brix Testing
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/SoilTesting.htm#Brix%20Testing>)
For insect resistance, maintain a Brix of 12 or higher in the juice of the
leaves of most plants. Test before spraying, and then two hours after
spraying. An increase of 2 points indicates you gave something the plant
needed. (See Andersen
The fellow who told me he had such good results with Coca-Cola suggested
pouring 2 each two-liter bottles into a backpack sprayer. He then said to
add a cup of fish emulsion (the kind with seaweed) and fill it to the 3
gallon mark. This gives you sugar (to feed the microbes), phosphoric acid,
fish solids, and seaweed.
1. Superior nutritional quality of produce
2. Improved health of plants, land, water, producers, consumers
3. Excellent keeping qualities of produce
4. Minimal pest problems
***Nourishment Home Grown
<http://www.advancedideals.org/015_book_information.html>*, by A.F. Beddoe,
DDS, 2004 Edition, Advanced Ideals Institute
<http://www.advancedideals.org/01_who_we_are.html>.
This excellent book covers the 'Biological Theory of Ionization,' a phrase
coined by Dr. Carey Reams, and the use of the refractometer to measure
quality of produce (brix). This book will give you much food for thought,
as well as practical gardening info. Includes some helpful tips on growing
fruit trees. This book explains how small, carefully applied chemical
nutrients can enhance the results in an otherwise 'organic' garden.
*Secrets to Great Soil*, * A Grower's Guide to Composting, Mulching, and
creating Healthy, Fertile Soil for Your Garden and Lawn*, by Elizabeth
Stell, 1998. Good source of basic information, but beware of chemical
fertilizers mentioned. Does not cover use of refractometer. Minimal info
about compost teas. Beware of instructions for sterilizing soil. Never
sterilize good compost, as the microorganisms in good compost are the best
defense against soil pathogens. I have had little trouble with "damping
off" of young seedlings when my homemade seed starting soil includes good
compost.
*The Vegetable Gardener's Bible*, by Edward C. Smith, 2004 This is a lovely
book with decent basic information about gardening, heavy emphasis on
compost and misguided emphasis on correcting pH, rather than supplying the
minerals plants need for good growth. You can create problems if you follow
the directions for correcting pH. The book has an extensive section on
combating pests, which shouldn't be an issue if you have well balanced soil
with plenty of trace minerals, humus, and biological activity. I would not
rely on this book for fertility recommendations. It does have a nice
section on individual vegetables and their requirements, including
companion plantings and rotation considerations.
*Gardening for Maximum Nutrition*, by Jerry Minnich, 1983, inspired the
title of this workshop, but has little information about building excellent
soil, much less the use of a refractometer. There is much information about
the nutritional value of fruits and vegetables, but it also contains
misinformation, such as promoting soybeans (which contain many
anti-nutrients and should generally be avoided) and low fat eating (with no
appreciation for the importance of fats in the diet or the excellent
qualities of pasture raised animal products), while equating carotene from
plants with the vitamin A from eggs and butter (the conversion is always
very inefficient, often inadequate, and many people don't make the
conversion at all).
*Four-Season Harvest*, by Elliot Coleman, 1992, has valuable info about
making compost and extending the season of harvest, cold frames, etc, but
little about building excellent soil, much less the use of refractometer.
*Square Foot Gardening*, by Mel Bartholomew, 1981, has useful info about
increasing production in a limited space, and quite a bit about improving
soil quality, but I am wary of his recommendations to use things like
vermiculite, peat moss (compost, leaves, etc. are better), and wood ashes
(easy to apply too much potassium and throw off soil).
*The Organic Method Primer, Update
<http://www.acresusa.com/books/closeup.asp?action=search&prodid=688&catid=&pcid=2>*
by Bargyla & Gylver Rateaver, 1993, a large & expensive resource by the
outspoken professor who taught the "first-in-the-world" course on organic
method in any tax-supported, public institution back in the 1960's,
starting the organic movement in California. This very useful volume does
include the use of brix to evaluate quality.
*Books Aimed at Farmers:*
These books have more in-depth info aimed at farmers. They spend a lot of
time convincing the skeptic, but less time on practical techniques, leaving
the beginner confused and full of questions. Perhaps that is because high
quality soil fertility is a complex subject, which requires a fair amount
of study.
*** *Black Lake Organic Optimum Mixes (B.L.O.O.M.TM)
<http://www.blacklakeorganic.com/Products>** - includes useful info on
numerous organic amendments. Interesting concept - their BLO Membership
Community*
** **Gardens Alive* from Indiana www.gardensalive.com/ One of the largest
organic pest control and fertilizer suppliers, with an excellent reputation
for customer service.
** Perfect Blend* * Organic Fertilizers* www.perfect-blend.com/
Perfect Blend is a complete organic fertilizer made from manure
supplemented with essential minerals by a new patented procedure that
preserves all its nutrients. Further Info
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/GardeningforMaximumNutrition.htm#Humus>
Available at Lowe's
** **Proactive Agriculture* <http://www.proactiveag.com/PRODUCTS.html>* - *we
believe that the importance of balance reflects the outcome in agriculture
and in life.
** Calcium-25* http://www.calcium25.com/
*Calcium-25* is a unique crop yield-enhancing product, and is composed of
only naturally-occurring ingredients: calcium and certain amounts of plant
waxes that occur on the leaf surface... (May contain calcium chloride, so
use properly, sparingly)
** FloraStim *products have their base in naturally occurring marcasite
clay which is mined from a source in Sylverna, Mississippi. This is an
ancient marine deposit that is rich in nutrients and contains billions of
microorganisms per lb of material that can live in a very large PH range.
The products for soil are Flora-Stim, and Vita-Stim (liquid). We suggest a
soil test on the soil that tests for trace minerals. If no test is done
general rule is 300 pounds per acre the first year, 200 pounds the second
year per acre and 100 thereafter per acre. This should be applied on top
(not worked in) of the soil allowing the rain to take it in. If you have a
garden a 50 pound bag will do 5,000 square feet. This is just hand
broadcasted on top. It works down to 28 degrees in temperature. Price on
Flora-Stim $18/50# bag plus shipping. For more info email darrow@tbscc.com.
Supplier in northwest Pennsylvania:
Richard & Sylvia Darrow
darrow@tbscc.com
Pure Earth Products
Restora-Life Minerals for soil and animals
19144 Rt. 89
Corry, PA 16407 - 9554
814-664-8800
** C-Gro* ( www.c-gro.com/ ) is an all natural soil amendment extracted
from seawater that contains critical nutrients, presently absent in soils.
A balance of elements in the soil will reduce plant disease, accelerate
plant maturation and increase production.
** Sea-Crop* ( www.sea-crop.com) <http://www.sea-crop.com/> - recommended
by Vinny Pinto as the best.
** Sea Water *www.sea-solution.com
Our mission is to restore balance to the plant and animal kingdom by
developing sustainable technologies for food production that maximize the
nutritional content of crops, and thus improve the human condition. *Sea
Water* is dedicated to providing growers with the inputs and methodology
necessary to produce high quality food and juices at affordable prices to
the consumer.
Growing your own wheat grass
<http://www.growgreens.com/page/page/2704053.htm> (and other sprouts), by
Sea Water distributor, Grow Greens (www.growgreens.com).
** **Earth Tonic* www.progressearth.com/index.php/products/detail/4/tonic -
biodynamically enhanced sea mineral concentrate.
** * *Agriculture Solutions <http://www.agriculturesolutions.com/> - *a
fertilizer company dedicated to helping people raise the mineral density of
their crops through foliar sprays and liquid fertilizers.
*** *Advancing Eco-Agriculture, *4551 Parks West Rd., Middlefield, OH
44062, www.growbetterfood.com
** **JungleFlora <http://probiotichealthllc.com/jungleflora/>* - plant
growth accelerator/soil conditioner - available on Amazon
A good organic product - living, thick, brown liquid that can develop
pressure in bottle, so keep it cool, with cover slightly loose to allow
release of pressure.
** AMAZE - *This is a 5-16-4-5Ca clear liquid foliar fertilizer. The
unique thing about this product is the mixture of Calcium & Phosphorous in
a clear solution.
>From International Ag Labs http://www.aglabs.com/products.html
** * *Neptune's Harvest Fish Hydrolysate/Seaweed Extract*
Neptune's Harvest - http://www.neptunesharvest.com/
Neptune's Harvest fish hydrolysate is an all organic, highly nutritional
protein fertilizer, made utilizing naturally occurring enzymes present in
fresh North Atlantic fish. We produce this using a cold process employing
enzymes (natural biological catalysts) which break down fish, or fish
frames (the part left after the fillet is removed for human consumption) to
simpler protein complexes. This process is called Hydrolysis.
No synthetic materials are mixed into the fish hydrolysate, and the only
manipulation the product undergoes is grinding and hydrolysis. This
process yields a stable, non-odorous, liquid fertilizer that is an easy to
use, safe product. The nitrogen in Neptune's Harvest fish fertilizer is
derived from fish protein in the form of amino acids which when added to
the soil, slowly break down into basic nitrogen compounds.
Fish emulsion is made from heated fish waste after protein and oils are
removed. It is an inferior product to fish hydrolysate.
** Correct Planting Routine(R)* Mycorrhizal inoculant plus aerobic
biologicals, vitamins, minerals, herbs and more - http://www.biogreeninc.com/ Click on 'Catalogue of Products' - aimed at
lawn and tree care care - professional products include a liquid calcium
and an organic wetting agent that can be helpful. The "Technical Overview"
is on target. "H*ealthy soil is dictated by four dimensions which are
the* *following:
Magnetic Balance, Mineral Balance, Oxygen Circulation and Biological
Balance*."
A Cleveland source http://www.thesweetgreens.com/Organics-c310.html
*** * Soil Secrets* - In New Mexico - mycorrhizal inoculants with humic
acids http://www.soilsecrets.com/ Includes some good basic info on humus.
*** *SumaGrow* <http://www.sumagrow.com/who-we-are/> is an economical,
environmentally-friendly consortium of beneficial soil microbes carried by
liquid humates. Recommended by someone in Texas.
** Tainio Technology & Technique, Inc* http://www.tainio.com/index.htm
"We are dedicated to providing you premium agricultural products that are
safe to our environment."
** **Jubilate *- from HighBrixGardens.com
<http://www.highbrixgardens.com/index.html> - call or email them for more
information. Jubilate contains minerals in rock powders, bacterial and
mycorrhizal inoculants, carbons for biostimulation, and other ingredients
to help plants grow. Archaea are also included.
Nitron A-35 "activates and releases soil nutrients. Nitron's Formula A-35
is the key to unlocking your soil. A-35 acts as a catalyst and compliments
soils natural enzymes. It activates and releases nutrients in the soil as
well as those added with fertilizer. Nitron's enzyme catalyst will aid in
the release of nutrients and trace elements to plants in any type of soil."
High quality compost tea can also provide the minerals needed by the plant
in the chelated form that is easily utilized by the plants. So using it as
a soil drench gets those nutrients to the roots, giving the plant a boost.
Using the compost tea as a foliar puts minerals on the leaves where they
can be utilized, and also protects the plant with a layer of good bacteria.
By using the high quality compost tea regularly you can give the plants a
boost to produce maximum quality (brix). Example of use of compost tea
<http://www.chrismartenson.com/forum/investing-soil/30298>
High Brix crops results when crops have high levels of soil mineral
nutrition along with the transformation and chelating agents of soil acids.
Soil acids are the result of the natural deterioration of organic materials
into a tea. The tea is the material that is then transformed by soil
bacteria and fungi into fulvic and humic acids [*humus*].
The path to high Brix is actually a very simple formula. Build active humic
and fulvic acids in your soil. These are the acids that * chelate*
minerals, including N-P-K, secondary minerals such as CA, MG, S, as well as
trace minerals, and work to provide microbes and plants with the chelated
minerals. Fulvic acid is transcellular - it can feed plants by passing
through the cellular structure of the root system. As the plants accumulate
minerals and nutrition - from the fulvic / humic soil matrix - plants start
to build sugars. They also start reaching towards achieving their genetic
potential. As the plants build mineral content and sugar content, we are
able to read this change with a refractometer. The basis of sugar increase
in a plant is directly related to the nutritional values available to the
plant from the soil in which it grows. Synthetic forms of nutrients are
unable to stick around long enough to provide plants with the slow nutrient
feed that a plant requires to boost mineral and sugar content. Mineral rich
soils are useless to a plant if there is no transfer mechanism - the
transfer mechanism being the weak acids, in the form of fulvic and humic
acids, that chelate the minerals from the soil into a form that is useful
to the plant.
All organic material will, sooner or later, turn into fulvic and humic
acids [finished compost]. There are several factors, including pH and a
homogenous nature that can accelerate the transformation. Other factors,
such as the labile nature of manure, condemns most manure applications to
being very ineffective from an efficiency viewpoint in building fulvic and
humic acids. It takes, for example, 6 to 8 tons of manure per acre to equal
a single ton application of a high efficiency organic fertilizer. Some
folks work high cellulose content mixes into their soil. They are
disappointed that the benefit to their soil does not happen in the year of
application. This is due to bacterial action necessary to break the
cellulose down. [For further elaboration see Producing High Brix Plants
<http://www.mercyviewmeadow.org/Garden/HiBrix.htm>]
Best regards,
John Marler
Perfect Blend Organics
www.perfect-blend.com
*Companion Planting*
** *The National Sustainable Ag Info Service
Companion Planting: Basic Concept and Resources http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/complant.html
Includes a useful chart of companion plants