On 7/15/2010 11:10 PM, Lawrence F. London, Jr. wrote:
I am going to make a foray into the Permies.com threads Paul referenced
and Xpost interesting material into this thread.
Reading through the dry system thtead gave me a few ideas about plant
material with the capacity to absorb large quantities of nitrogenous
waste, raw or partially composted: pines (loblolly, virginia, shortleaf,
not white in southeastern US), eastern red cedar, river birch, poplar,
willow, winterberry holly (ilex verticillata or ilex decidua), inkberry
holly/ilex glabra, Black chokeberry/aronia melanocarpa, eleagnus,
elderberry, viburnum [arrowwood viburnum, other native varieties seen
growing on creekbanks with roots near water), cattails, papyrus, water
lillies, water hyacinth and duckweed, azolla where it will grow.
I am thinking of a land based system with carefully formed terrain
using ditches, swales, berms, flatland and water impoundments that are
part of ditch systems in wide deeper spots and individual ponds.
Another idea is to build a Hugelculture system and channel effluent
through it before dumping it into a meadow/fallow field on a slope
where weeds of all sorts are allowed to grow; as species become
established (i.e. grasses and clovers, plantain and dock) hardy shrubs
and woody perennials could be planted to increase year round nutrient
absorption.
The Tree Bog concept from Biologic Designs (see previous posts about
their demo site):
The tree bog was invented by Jay Abrahams of Biologic Design in the UK
after he observed that the trees around the place where faeces were
deposited were particularly vigorous. Tree bogs can be considered
examples of permaculture design.
The tree bog is a simple method of composting wastes, and since its
introduction by Biologic Design in 1995 over 500 tree bogs have been
built in Britain[citation needed]. They have been on sites ranging from
fruit farms[citation needed] and pick-your-own enterprises[citation
needed], campsites[citation needed] and an angling lake to annual
festival sites[citation needed], remote/low impact dwellings[citation
needed] holiday cottages[citation needed] and churches[1].
A tree bog can be created if one is on the mains but wishes to lower the
environmental impact of sending wastewater to the sewage works.
The tree bog has attracted the attention of NGOs[citation needed] and
aid workers who hope to develop its potential for shanty towns or
refugee camps[citation needed] - anywhere that water is scarce and the
population pressure on resources is high. Most regions have vigorous and
useful plants which, if willow is not available, can be used (e.g.
Gliricidia sepium or ‘Quickstick’ in the subtropics).
Workings
A tree bog is simply an uncontrolled compost heap whose function has
been enhanced by use of moisture/nutrient-hungry trees. Tree bogs use no
water, purify waste as they create willow as a biomass resource, and
also contain the organic waste, thus preventing the spread of disease -
all whilst creating soil. A seating platform/cubicle is mounted at least
one meter high. The area beneath the seating platform should be enclosed
by a double-layer of chicken wire - this acts as an effective
rodent/small animal and child proof barrier, but allows air to circulate
through the compost heap.
The space between the wire should be stuffed not too densely with straw
which acts as a wick to help sop up excess urine preventing the
likelihood of odour problems due to incomplete biological absorption of
the nitrogen from the urine. The straw filled wire also enables the pile
to be well-aerated whilst acting as a visual screen for the first year’s
use. The structure is then surrounded by two closely planted rows of
osier or biomass willow cuttings; this living wall of willow can then be
woven into a hurdle-like structure and its annual growth can be harvested.
Tree bogs can also be sited on the edge of existing stands of trees,
woodlands or hedges: the mature tree roots will soon find the additional
source of nutrients, so that the willow may be unnecessary, - or indeed,
in the middle of a mature woodland, pretty well impossible due to shading.
The tree bog combines resource production and waste disposal. The tree
bog functions by transforming faeces and urine into growing trees and
organic soil. The roots of the trees are host to soil micro-organisms
which decompose and mineralise the materials in the heap, making the
nutrients available to the tree roots. Thus the willow are able to grow
more vigorously as these added nutrients become available.
Outputs/Benefits
Benefits include:
* Disposal of waste without using water.
* Soil is both generated & regenerated.
* Earthworms proliferate within and around the compost contained
within the tree bog.
* Leaf mould from willow leaves.
* Comfrey bed on leach field for nitrate/phosphate absorption.
* Leaf matter and twigs for stock fodder.
* No odour or fly problems.
* Willow wands for baskets, fuel or structural use.
The tree bog is a simple means of taking responsibility for wastes
produced in everyday life. It involves no secondary handling (except the
poking with a pole) of waste matter. Management is minimal, being an
annual winter cutting and weaving of the willow. The wands can be used
as polewood, for basket or hurdle making, or chipped for use for animal
bedding or cut and bundled as fagots to use as fuelwood.
Willow planting
Although not required for an effective tree bog, planting the willow
wands at least one growing season prior to the tree bog being used has
advantages. This way the willow roots are mature and the wands have
grown up to a reasonable height before the platform is constructed - as
the platform shadow can hinder the growth of the planted willow sets on
the shade side.
The best time to plant out the willow for a tree bog (in the northern
hemisphere) is from October to March, as then the willow has a chance to
get established before the onset of summer. However it is possible to
construct and use a tree bog at any time and then plant it out at the
appropriate time of year. The straw acts as the visual screen for the
compost pile until the willow is in place and growing.
Vigorous varieties of unrooted willow sets/cuttings work best, and if
they are planted out after the middle of April they should be well
mulched and watered every day for the first month or they will not take
(i.e. the roots will not develop and they will wither away). If possible
use named osier or biomass types since these will grow vigorously and
can tolerate the annual coppicing as well as being suited for use in
basketry and hurdle making. If you are gathering local wild osier or
other willow to plant your tree bog, use willow that has been coppiced
or pollarded recently, because young wood makes the best cuttings.
Willow management
The willow can be coppiced annually or left to grow for more than one
year, though you will find it grows quite large. Cut the willow between
November and early March and don’t be afraid to cut it right down to the
ground or to the top of your living woven willow hurdle - as long as it
is not smothered with weeds and has sufficient sunlight it will regrow
vigorously, using the nutrients and moisture within the tree bog.