In the orchards I've worked at, I implemented what is known as the sod mulch
system. Michael Phillips who wrote the Apple Grower is a big proponent of
this. By letting the grass go, you are also keeping fungal spores in the
understory during the wet spring. This has worked well on large projects
where woodchips or other mulches from off farm would be way too much. This
can be done again in the fall to expose rodents to raptors and to add more
mulch. This doesn't completely get rid of grass, but it speeds up succession
to more of a fungal balance in the soil, where as constant mowing keeps the
understory more bacterial. The Apple Grower has lots of data showing
increased yields and reduced disease and pest problems using this method.
Give it a try!
Chris
Rich Blaha <rich@mossbackfarm.com> wrote: In our small orchard, grass is the default understory, mostly because I haven't yet rustled up the gumption to sheet mulch it's entire 40x150' area. Some of that was a lack of commitment, since I planted the fruit tree overstory, and never really settled on the entire understory elements of the guild.
In that time, however, we've cut swales into the slope, and ran chickens under the trees with some regularity...while the system is still dominated by grass, it has shifted from Agrostis species (bentgrass, a carpet-forming, drought-deciduous, shallow rooted grass) to a much higher component of fescue and orchardgrass, with more subclovers and chicory present. Since the main income of the farm is from rotational grazing, those species are like gold, since they stay green all summer. Woody perennials that I've added on the outskirts (outside of chicken destruction range) are goumi and yellowhorn
I still have to mow it, but if I keep the chickens on it until April, they really stunt the growth of the bentgrass, and the other, more deep rooted herbaceous species are able to thrive. As the trees mature, sheep will be able to do the mowing. In the meantime, a couple of rounds with the string trimmer per year keeps the fire danger down...I'm not too worried about the cosmetics of it.
An added bonus of the chickens is they especially like to work over the drip lines of the trees...they keep the grass pretty wiped out close to the trunks, which I think should help reduce the water competition between my trees and the grass.
Cheers
Rich
www.mossbackfarm.com/journal
4. Re: grass in orchards (was Geese as guards? Imprinting?)_______________________________________________
(Paul Cereghino)
---------------------------------------------------------
Depending on the scale you work at, it takes work to get away from grasses, and grasses may dominate over time under neglect... then mowing or grazing the grass becomes the alternative to letting the grass grow and become more competative... but then mowing/grazing can be a disturbance that encourages grasses which are well adapted to that kind of distrubance -- you're in a feedback cycle. In some settings, fruit yield is limited by soil moisture, and so reducing transpiring leaf area in association with your trees could be a strategy to increase monocrop yield. Not saying its a good idea, or the best solution -- just is what it is and can pay the bills if you happen to be brainwashed into thinking about bills ;) So Fukuoka has good ideas for converting to non-grass plants, but it looks risky from the perspective of someone conditioned to like the control of mowed grass, and transition to a semi-wild system may in fact be risky for yield as you figure out what the hell your doing. ~Paul ------------------------------Marjory,
It seems that many orchardists grow grass under their fruit trees. I
don't understand why. My (limited) understanding is that the grass
roots occupy roughly the same space as the fruit tree roots.
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