To: "nafex@lists.ibiblio.org" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [nafex] cold callusing
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 17:19:29 -0700
I just got around to cleaning the unused scionwood out of the back of my
fridge (my wife is thrilled) and was surprised by a couple of things. First,
I noticed that a couple sticks seemed completely unbothered by 6 months in
the back of the fridge. In particular, Winter Banana seemed as good as the
day it was cut. The bulk of the sticks were withered, moldy, and/or
sprouting, but not Winter Banana.
The other nice surprise was that a small number of apple varieties, had
callused nicely. Some even seemed to have some root initials. Among those
that did were Whitney and Wickson Crabs, as well as one called Windham
Russet. Though I have double-worked trees growing nicely from all three, I
stuck them into some rooting medium for the heck of it to see if they would
root for me. I'm not sure if the shortening days will be a significant
impediment to their development, but I guess I'll find out. I like to have
trees on their own roots if I can swing it.
I remember seeing descriptions of "cold callusing" and "warm callusing" in
the "Grafter's Handbook, and kind of just wrote them off as unnecessarily
elaborate procedures that I'd probably never bother with, but given the fact
that many cuttings rot before they callus, it does seem to be a pretty useful
little trick. Has anyone played around with it much? Any reports on what else
can be successfully cold callused. Any other tricks or refinements worth
knowing?
-Devin
>From rizzolori1@gmail.com Sun Aug 17 20:23:10 2014
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From: Lori Rizzo <rizzolori1@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:22:46 -0400
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Subject: Re: [nafex] Dear repellent
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While I was on Winter Island, Salem, MA, I came across these trees and
someone there said he thought they were wild cherries. They don't seem to
have the same structure as a cherry, but I tasted one and they do have
similar taste and pit.
I am not an orchardist or botanist, but am wondering if anyone knows what
these might be. I wouldn't mind making a jelly out of them but don't want
to get poisoned! I can't remember if we can attach photos on this list,
but will do so and see what happens.
Thanks,
Lori
On Sun, Aug 17, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Alan Haigh <alandhaigh@gmail.com> wrote:
> I cannot provide a more interesting repellent formula than what sounds to
> be burnt bone juice- although I expect by using a pressure cooker and a
> cast iron pan you could create something similar more easily if you don't
> mind having to use a powered wire brush to get the remains off the pan
> after burning the concentrated broth. A little vinegar in the water
> might free up more of the calcium and phosphorus if advice I've been given
> about making a more nutritious broth is correct. This might increase the
> repellency.
>
> I would like to see the multi-year effectiveness of the given formula
> backed by some kind of research, it does sound too good to be true and it
> doesn't sound so simple to make to me (and soup bones have become expensive
> if you don't happen to slaughter your own animals). If it is that long
> lasting, someone should create a specific recipe, patent it and make a
> fortune replacing fences in commercial orchards throughout the country with
> their miracle product. There is a pretty big market for deer repellents.
>
> What I used for years in my nursery is mostly whipped eggs mixed with water
> at about 2 eggs per gallon sprayed on the trees. I'd often include bars of
> Ivory soap, shredded and boiled in water then blended with the eggs. Now
> I'm using the eggs combined with Plantskyd- an expensive but long lasting
> product made out of the blood of slaughtered animals. The eggs allow me to
> use a third the recommended concentration of the expensive commercial
> product.
>
> Dried blood can also be used- I used to hang it from plastic bottles from
> trees fermenting in water, but it was just too stinky and if you bumped a
> bottle and got the stuff on you it was truly rank. It did work all season
> though and I only needed a bottle about every 10 feet or so. People
> sometimes just sprinkle it out of the package onto foliage. Eventually I
> will probably replace Plantskyd with powdered blood in my formula, adding a
> spreader-sticker for good measure. I just don't see it in garden centers
> any more.
>
> I always mix more of any repellent than I can possibly use quickly and let
> the stuff ferment into a toxic and foul smelling mixture, which also
> allows me to stretch the mixture longer. I've been sizing up fruit trees
> in my nursery for over two decades in major deer territory without fencing
> by using fencing and can vouch for their efficacy.
>
> Millorganite in cloth satchels can also work reasonably well.
>
> Ultimately, I recommend growing the trees above the browse line. Deer are
> helpful at eating drops and reducing insect and disease pressure. Real
> fruit should grow on real trees in my book.
> __________________
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--
Lori Rizzo, BSN MBA RN
*Healthcare Quality & Performance Improvement*
*Behavioral Dog Training & Counseling*
*Heirloom & Unusual Vegetable Propagation*
*Dedham, MA*
*rizzolori1@gmail.com <rizzolori1@gmail.com>*