To: "North American Fruit Explorers" <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
Subject: [NAFEX] Tattooed Fruit
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 10:23:45 -0500
Published: July 19, 2005
From the New York Times:
Tattooed Fruit is On The Way
A pear is just a pear, except when it is also a laser-coded information
delivery system with advanced security clearance.
And that is what pears - not to mention organic apples, waxy cucumbers and
delicate peaches - are becoming in some supermarkets around the country. A
new technology being used by produce distributors employs lasers to tattoo
fruits and vegetables with their names, identifying numbers, countries of
origin and other information that helps speed distribution. The marks are
burned onto the outer layer of the skin and are visible to discerning
consumers and befuddled cashiers alike.
A new laser technology for labeling fruits and vegetables, designed by
Durand-Wayland, Inc., is being put to work at Southern Oregon Sales, a pear
distributor in Medford, Ore.
The process, government approved and called safe by the industry, may sound
sinister. But it was designed with the consumer in mind: laser coding could
mean the end of those tiny stubborn stickers that have to be picked, scraped
or yanked off produce.
Sticker-removal duty took Jean Lemeaux of Clarksville, Tex., half an hour
one day last week.
"I was picking all the little stickers from the Piggly Wiggly off my plums
and my avocado pears and my peaches," said Ms. Lemeaux, 76. "Then I had to
make fruit salad out of the ones that got hurt when I took the stickers off,
and then I had to wash the glue off the other ones before I put them in the
fruit bowl."
"One time," she said, "I got up the next morning and looked in the mirror
and there were two of them up in my hair."
The stickerless technology has a broader purpose, too: it is part of the
produce industry's latest effort to identify and track, whether for profit
or for security, everything Americans eat. Since 9/11, the industry has been
encouraged to develop "track and trace" technology to allow protection of
the food supply at various stages of distribution. In addition, next year
federal regulations will require all imported produce to be labeled with the
country of origin.
The tattooed fruit is being sold in stores nationwide as other tracing
methods are also being tested, like miniaturized bar coding and cameras with
advanced recognition technology that can identify fruits and vegetables at
the checkout counter. In Japan, apples have been sold with scannable bar
coding etched into the wax on their skin. No one knows exactly when every
piece of fruit will be traceable, but the trend is clear: Wal-Mart is
already requiring all pallets delivered to its headquarters in Bentonville,
Ark., to be fitted with radio frequency identification tags, so that they
can be tracked by a satellite.
But the carrier of information about fruits and vegetables in America
remains the tiny sticker called the P.L.U., for "price look-up." It is
unpopular not just with consumers but with the industry itself.
"If they are sticky enough to stay on the fruit through the whole
distribution and sales network, they are so sticky that the customer can't
get them off," said Michael Hively, general manager of Bland Farms in
Reidsville, Ga., the country's largest grower and packer of sweet Vidalia
onions.
But apart from the occasional crate of locally grown produce, "most
supermarkets no longer accept fruit and vegetables that are not stickered,"
said Francis Garcia, a vice president of Sinclair Systems in Fresno, Calif.,
a major manufacturer of the stickers and of the automated systems that blow
them onto fruit at centralized packing houses.
To producers, the stickers are messy, expensive and inefficient. "The
industry knows that the days of the P.L.U. sticker are numbered and that
there will have to be new systems," said Don Harris, vice president for
produce at Wild Oats, a national chain of markets, and chairman of the
Produce Electronic Identification Board, an industry group. "Customers do
not like them, and they don't hold enough information anyway."
In 2002 Durand-Wayland, a fruit grower and distributor in Georgia, bought
the patent for a process that etches the price look-up number and any other
information the retailer or customer might desire directly into the skin of
the fruit. Greg Drouillard, who originally patented laser coding for produce
and who now works for Durand-Wayland, said the process permanently tattoos
each piece of fruit, removing only the outer pigment to reveal a contrasting
layer underneath and make the tattoo readable, even scannable.
"With the right scanning technology the produce could even be bar-coded with
lots of information: where it comes from, who grew it, who picked it, even
how many calories it has per serving," said Fred Durand III, president of
Durand-Wayland. "You could have a green pepper that was completely covered
with coding. Or you could sell advertising space."
Bland Farms, the Vidalia grower, started using the technology this year,
shipping laser-coded onions to customers including Wal-Mart and Publix.
Sunkist has used it on oranges sold at Stater Brothers markets in California
and is testing it on lemons, using blueberry-based ink to create greater
contrast.
Henry Affeldt Jr., director of research for Sunkist, said the technology
worked the same way lasers work in surgery, cutting and cauterizing almost
simultaneously. The skin of fruit that has been etched with a laser is still
airtight, Dr. Affeldt said, and the mark is as permanent as a tattoo.
Whether on a sticker or in a tattoo, the numbers serve a purpose. The
Produce Marketing Association and the International Federation for Produce
Coding have established global standards for the price look-up numbers
associated with all produce. Four-digit numbers denote conventionally grown
produce; five digits beginning with a 9, organic; five digits beginning with
8, genetically modified. A conventionally grown ear of corn, for example,
may be marked 4078; an organic one, 94078; and a genetically modified one,
84078. The numbers can also vary with the size of the fruit: 3069 indicates
a small Gravenstein apple, and 3070 a large one.
"When there was only one kind of apple at the supermarket it was easy," said
Mr. Harris of Wild Oats. "But now at some markets you will have 12 different
kinds of apples. You might even have lots of the same kind of apple:
conventional Fuji, organic Fuji, fair trade. You can't expect cashiers to
know them all, much less to recognize a cherimoya when they see one."
Ashley Little, who is working this summer as a checkout clerk in Great
Barrington, Mass., agrees.
"When I started, I didn't know the difference between a Bartlett and a Bosc
pear," she said. "How would I know that? But the customers would get very
impatient."
But can laser coding and beautiful fruit bowls coexist?
"Anything that permanently changes the fruit is going to be a hard sell,"
Mr. Harris said, "especially to buyers of organic produce."
Students of still-life painting might agree. "For literally hundreds of
years, artists have immersed themselves in the color and curvature of the
perfect peach or apple," said Joseph Rishel, a curator at the Philadelphia
Museum of Art who specializes in Cézanne. "So a tattoo sounds like a
desecration."
"But then again," Mr. Rishel said, "there are those who say that Cézanne
himself used artificial fruit."
Whatever its advantages, the laser system is far from perfect. The
blueberry-based dye Sunkist uses on lemons, for example, tends to run when
exposed to moisture.
"Mother Nature isn't interested in making it easy for us to label her, I
guess," Mr. Durand said. "If she was, all fruit would be red Delicious
apples."