One kind of hardines is how well a plant tolerates thaws. Some things are
too ready to break dormancy in the shortest of warm spells, and that hurts
them when the temperature drops again. But if you can keep them cold,
they're good to -40.
tc
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dean Kreutzer" <deankreutzer@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: North American Fruit Explorers <nafex@lists.ibiblio.org>
To: nafex@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [NAFEX] Hardiness Terms?
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 10:54:27 -0600
I tend to shy away from saying a certain plant is hardy to a certain
temperature because hardiness is so much more complex than temperature
itself. Factors such as how heavy the crop was, did the plant harden off
well in the fall, how heavy was the disease pressure, was there a drought,
is there a microclimate etc. all can affect how well a plant survives the
winter. Just because a plant has had winter damage in -30F winters, doesn't
mean it can't survive -40F without damage. Nor just because a plant has
survived -40F without damage, doesn't guarantee that it won't be damaged in
-30F winters. This is why it typically takes many years of testing before
plants are released to the public, because fruit breeders cannot make claims
based on the results of 1 winter season.
I like to say "This plant has survived -40F without damage" rather than
"This plant is hardy to -40F".
I assume that a catalog that is distributed nationally wouldn't have "local"
terms of hardiness because that type of information would be irrelevant to
the majority of customers. I believe that using hardiness zones is
inprecise, yet the best method as a guide for hardiness we have. Like most
things, you must take it with a grain of salt.