Subject: Re: [nafex] grafting knife/ conference date
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:15:52 -0500 (CDT)
> Joe wrote:
> >I ... Stongly suggest short knives. Short
> >tools are stiffer and less whippy than long ones. Sure, you can
cut
> >with the portion of the edge closest to the hand. But there is
usually
> >some portion of the edge that is just a wee bit sharper, just a few
> >inches out. Next thing you know, you are making all your cuts with
the
> >sweetest portion of the edge.
>
> I prefer about a 2- 2 1/2 " blade because it gives a longer slicing
-
> leveling surface for a cleaner flatter cut. Are you referring to
length as
> being the principle "danger factor"? Or just that some knives are
> flexable?
I see two sources of flexibility. One source is the length of budwood
sticking out of your fist. The other source is the knife.
Flexibility is a problem because there is a lot of potential energy
bound up in those springy members. You cannot predict or control
where that energy will go if something breaks or slips.
I have had people bring fish fileting knives to grafting lessons
"Because it is really, really sharp." Having that long an edge
pointed at flesh can give me the willies.
One of my life goals is to make a graft with a piece of broken glass
or a chip of flint. I think it would have to be a simple splice
graft. Do you think the statement would be diluted if I used modern
materials to wrap the graft? I think I could get the job done with
Basswood or Mulberry inner bark.
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