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  • From: "Lynda" <lurine AT softcom.net>
  • To: <homestead AT lists.ibiblio.org>
  • Subject: Re: [Homestead] Garden water infrastructure
  • Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2007 10:06:50 -0800

Well, I went to the "tutorial" and then asked DH (landscape designer and irrigation specialist) about it because it didn't sound right.

You do NOT want to use Class 200, or Class anything. It is known in the industry as "eggshell." Lot of sunlight, using a saw without holding your mouth the right way, if buried, someone or something (critters) walking on top of it and it will crack. It doesn't last, it won't take pressure.

Around any of the bigger valves (3" and up), use a Schedule 80. The rattle from the bigger valves when they turn on (they shake, hard!) will crack the Schedule 40 over time and sometimes over very little time.

Lynda
----- Original Message ----- From: "Gene GeRue" <genegerue AT ruralize.com>

So you, too, oversize pipe. I wonder what percentage of us do. I ran
two-inch up to the barn, from whence it will go up the hill to a
storage tank for gravity feed. I am right now studying sizes and
capacities. While I typically oversize on the theory of bigger is
better and who knows if one forgot to take some factor into
consideration and who knows what future use might change the
requirements, I am about to install about six hundred feet of pipe
which, plus fittings and about a dozen hydrants, which adds up to a
fair piece of change, so I am doing a bit more research with an eye
to not going too far overboard.

At: http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler22.htm I just learned
that Schedule 40 has a wall thickness that diminishes capacity.


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