[pbs] Supersoil
Hannon
othonna at gmail.com
Mon Nov 24 11:21:02 EST 2008
The Supersoil change came some time ago and I've heard many growers
repeat what Diana says here. All products are subject to change. Even
a favorite plastic container can retain the same catalogue number but
if they change the die to save material you have a thinner, less
useful pot.
For seed mixes, I use an organic base, often peat-based but there are
other options. This component mostly provides moisture-retention and
"fluffs up" the mix to prevent compaction of the roots. Perlite also
improves aeration and prevents sogginess and compaction.
Finally, I add sand (about 25%) and this is very helpful for several
reasons: it allows easier re-wetting when mix is dry, it adds some
weight/firmness and provides insulation when bulbs are dormant.
Otherwise a peat-based or organic-based mix has a tendency to shrink
into a ball when very dry (as in dormancy) and makes for more work
overall. When seedling pots are on the dry side during repotting, a
sandy mix makes separation of roots easier, and sand has an overall
effect of extending the life of the mix. Sand is also inert and so
never sours or degrades; most forms of it are also very cheap.
Dylan Hannon
Dylan Hannon Rare Bulbs
On 24/11/2008, Telos Rare Bulbs <telosrarebulbs at suddenlink.net> wrote:
> I have to comment on the recommendation for starting Tecophilaea seeds in
> Supersoil.
>
> I used to use Supersoil, and it was a great product, steam sterilized and
> mostly finely ground fir bark. Good stuff. Then the company was bought and
> everything changed. It is no longer sterilized, and I won't say what it
> looks like, since I don't want to get sued. It sure doesn't look like
> ground fir bark. I don't use it any more and I would never recommend it,
> even for mature bulbs.
>
> For seed starting I now use a seed starting mix from McConkey. It is very
> finely ground peat moss with some vermiculite and perlite, plus a wetting
> agent and some dolomite to adjust the pH. I add more perlite, since for
> some species it is a bit too moisture retentive. It is very expensive,
> especially with shipping. For small batches of seed you can make your own
> seed starting mix by buying sphagnum peat moss and grinding it in a food
> processor or blender. You can add a wetting agent, although it's not really
> necessary for small pots, plus about 30% perlite for bulb seeds, and about a
> quarter teaspoon of dolomitic lime for a quart of mix to adjust the pH. The
> mix will be sterile, very important if you are sowing precious seed like
> Tecophialaea.
>
> Diana
> Telos Rare Bulbs
> www.telosrarebulbs.com
> www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com
>
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