[NAFEX] Rope + Red Elderberry

hans brinkmann hans-brinkmann at t-online.de
Fri May 30 08:33:25 EDT 2008


Hallo Bill + Ernest,

at Germany professionals for damaged trees do use always only Synthetic 
Woven Belt Material.
The loops should be loose (if possible) to have time for some years growth.
Producing factories may sell those belts (e.g. from safety belt 
production for cars) almost for nothing, if those belts are rests or 
productions with little woven mistakes. They are treating it like 
plastic waste and e.g. horse keepers are using them as very visible and 
fast fencing material.
The remaining pressure is very, very reduced - because of the large surface.

Your nursery has been right: Red Elderberry is an edible kind of elderberry!
Ripe Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) fruits do NOT contain 
Sambunigrin - but the seeds.
Exactly like Black Elderberry (Sambucus nigra)! Seeds and unripe fruits 
are never used.
If some Sambunigrin is left, it is completely destroyed by boiling!
BOTH Elderberries may be used for juice, jam, soup, syrup...Never 
poisonous after boiling.
The Red Elderberry contains more acid than the Black one. The fresh 
none-processed taste is the opposite of good.

ciao
hans


William C. Garthright schrieb:
> Long story short, I'm going to need to tie up some dwarf fruit trees, or 
> they'll fall over when they get fruit. They've got branches on only 1/4 
> of the tree (yeah, I've decided this wasn't a particularly good idea). 
> Cable is very awkward to use, but I've seen some 5/8" braided 
> poly-something rope that's supposed to last awhile outdoors (the young 
> clerk told me 5 to 20 years, but I suspect he was just pulling those 
> numbers out of thin air). It's about 4-500 lb. test.
>
> Anyway, if I tie a loop around the trunk using a bowline knot, it 
> shouldn't slip tight, and I'll leave plenty of room for the trunk to 
> grow (I imagine that tying a knot tightly around a trunk would be a bad 
> idea). And the rope is soft enough that it will flatten out on the far 
> side, so it should provide a pretty broad surface there, I'd think. But 
> before I buy the rope, I thought I'd ask if there's any downside here. 
> Something I haven't considered? (That wouldn't surprise me!)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
> Lincoln, NE (zone 5)
>
> PS. If you *really* want the long version, read on:  I came across this 
> "backyard orchard culture" idea 
> (http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/BOC_explained.html) when I was 
> first thinking of planting some fruit (I was, and still am, a complete 
> newbie). So I planted four different kinds of dwarf apples in one spot, 
> then did the same with plums and peaches. The first thing I discovered 
> is that keeping these trees really small is much harder than it sounds. 
> The second thing is that they're very hard to prune, when they're 
> planted four to a hole (more or less). And now I'm realizing that, since 
> each tree has branches on only one corner, they're likely to fall over 
> as soon as they get any fruit on them.
>
> I've got a steel t-post driven down in the center of each group of four 
> trees, so I'll be tying each tree to that. Yeah, I don't expect the post 
> to hold them up, but this way they'll be tied together. But let me tell 
> you, it's already very hard to get to the center. The rope would be a 
> lot easier to work with than anything else I've come up with.
>
> And no, I wouldn't do this again. Maybe I'd try a row of closely-spaced 
> trees, though. At least then, they'd have branches on two sides, to keep 
> them somewhat balanced.
>
>   




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