[NAFEX] relative vigor of grafting wood
Jwlehman at aol.com
Jwlehman at aol.com
Tue Apr 22 12:00:50 EDT 2008
In a message dated 4/22/2008 6:03:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
alandhaigh at gmail.com writes:
> I've long been puzzled by the inconsistency of some of my grafting projects
> where 2/3rds of the sites I do grafting I get almost 90% success and another
> 3rd I'll get only 50%. I wonder if it is related to using wood with poorly
> developed buds. Anyone out there with more info on this?
Let me pass along my observations on persimmon buds on this subject. I've cut
hundreds of scion sticks and grafted hundreds. But haven't done scientific
records keeping. This is nearly 20 years of observation.
Generally, on a single year's growth the buds further out or closer to the
tip are more developed than the first buds that developed when growth began.
These early buds are less developed and act as secondary or back-up buds. On
persimmon the outer more developed, or fatter buds are the ones that grow the
following year. Now if the growing tip is broken off or a late freeze, as in last
year, the secondary (less developed) buds then break out and grow. For sure
the smaller buds take longer to break dormancy. I've grafted many two year old
buds, when the prior years wood is too small*, with success. It does take maybe
two weeks longer for those dormant buds to become active and break out and
So yes, with persimmon, fat buds make better grafting material then small
Something else I've done with success. I've taken scion wood in July after
growth is well underway. Cut off the growing tip and graft the secondary or
reserve buds, works quite well. I've done it with plum, apple, mulberry and
* With persimmon, generally trees that bear heavy crops have less energy to
grow wood therefore difficult to find scion wood with good diameter And some
varieties just aren't good wood producers.
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